Thursday, July 2, 2015

Paris When it Sizzles


Bon jour mes amies!
Fortunately I have air conditioning because I have landed in the midst of a European heat wave, and tomorrow the forecast is for temps nearing 40C, which is 104F.  Now I know how to cope with heat as little as I like it, and I do have air conditioning, but many Europeans, especially the elderly suffer badly, and France has a national heat alert out.
The streets seem pretty full and busy right now.
I had smooth trip here, the French traffic controllers having called off their strike.  I chatted with a young man in the airline check in who was headed for Greece to see family.  He did not seem at all concerned about the current conditions.  Many atms in small cities are empty, and Greeks may withdraw only 60E per day even if they can find one with money in it.  It will be interesting to see how it all falls out.
I even zipped through security easily.  I encountered a new test. My palms were swabbed for toxic materials, but then I was directed into what the TSA officer called the good line.  I always want to be in the good line.  I didn't have to take out my computer or baggie full of liquids or take off my shoes.
The flight was long but not bad except I did not sleep at all.  I had pleasant seat mates and the cabin was quiet, and I was sleepy, too, but I'd start to doze off and then wake up again.
We arrived and I caught the RER into town.  Some people I talked to assumed I'd be taking taxis everywhere.  Nuh uh.  Breaks too much into the cheese budget.  I'll take public transport--which in France is excellent or I'll walk.  I had to transfer from the RER to the metro.  This is a pain.  There are tunnels and stairs up and down which are miserable to negotiate with baggage.  But I benefitted from the kindly helpfulness of the French.  At the ticket control I puzzled over how to slip my ticket in and get out.  Well there are two kinds of gates.  I was standing in front of one that takes only electronic passes as a young man pointed out to me.  Then when I was squirming through the gate one of my bags got snagged, and another kindly Frenchman helped unsnag me.
I found Citadines easily.  Place d'Italie where I have located is not a major tourist spot or particularly picturesque, but it is good strategically.  I have a choice of three metro lines and can pretty much get any where.  If it had been cooler, I would have walked down to the Latin Quarter in search of food, but given the conditions I just walked next door to the giant shopping mall and found the grocery store.  I like my local grocery store!  I walked around trying to have as good a look as possible given the way my brain was buzzing.
This is what I came away with: some salad mix and oil and vinegar. hummus for breakfast, water.  Not that exciting. How about some olives with Basque piment d' espelette?  Nice!  Not hot at least for a Southern Californian's palate.  I got a package of Pain Poilane.  You should google it.  Now I'm sure the fresh baked loves straight from the wood fired oven at the shop are better, but this will do me very nicely.  I think I'll toast it and on it spread---some goat cheese.  Oh but this is Rocamadour lait cru (that's raw milk) and Appellation d'Origine Protectee, which is an EU wide recognition of tradition and quality.  To wash this down we have some Rose de Anjou--only Appellation d'Origine Controllee, which means it's only protected and recognized in France.  The cheese is extremely delicate and melty.  It just took my walking around the store for a bit and leaving it on the counter for it to practically liquify.  My oh my it's good.   It's not goaty at all but has a definite rich taste.  Now I just pulled a cheap bottle under five euros off the shelf of the grocery, but we have a winner.  It's off dry and has an earthy taste that goes wonderfully with the cheese.  Do not scoff at me for drinking rose either.  That's what the French do--and even add ice cubes--in hot weather.
A demain

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