Bon jour, mes amies,
The weather is turning hot for the next few days, so the touristing will be of the non-strenuous variety--like today's. I thought Crazy Guy had taken the Fete Nationale off from being crazy, but no. He showed up later and chanted a bit, then fell silent and left.
After taking out the trash, recycling, grocery shopping (because European fridges are minuscule) and renewing my supply of metro tickets, I took off on Line Six which dumped me out at the end of the line at the Arc de Triomphe as always crowded with tourists. I sauntered away from it down the fabled Champs Elysees. The boulevard is very wide and choked with traffic, but on either side are equally broad sidewalks and fancy stores. You will also see chains tucked in amongst the luxury brands even American ones like Gap and Disney. I nipped into Sephora for a perfume fix. I like smelling expensive. I dislike spending the money to do so. I also snooted around Marks and Spencer, the British chain which has returned successfully to Paris. Lots of windows. Lots to lick.
Pil, tell is the truth about French Women. Are they impossibly chic?
I'm afraid so--with the emphasis on impossibly, meaning that it's either genetic or culturally engrained from earliest days. And I have tried to figure the look out, mes amies, in order to understand and copy. I have rarely seen a "dressed up" Parisian. Casual reigns during summer, and the dress is simple and comfortable. From my observations, they all wear jewelry no matter what, carry a statement bag, and wear flimsy shoes. I realize this is not helpful in the least. They just look very put together. We tourists look--rather random.
But I had other things in mind besides fashion. Despite my many trips to Paris I'd never been to the two "palaces" built for the world's fair sort of thing in the late nineteenth century, the same event that produced the Eiffel Tower. So I had a goal as I strolled and presently I came upon the "palaces" just off the Champs. I began with the Petite Palais, an ornate and hardy little building holding an artistic exhibition relevant to the History of Paris. In fact there was more there than I knew, and I realized I had missed out big time all these years. On offer is a solid collection of paintings, including a Rembrandt, as well as various objects d' art, and a lovely exhibition of Orthodox Christian Icons. Works from Antiquity (don't miss the black figure vases), the Renaissance and Nineteenth Century are all worth the view. And it's free and uncrowded, and you are coming to the Champs anyway. So?
Across the street is the Grand Palais, and, yes, it's much bigger and much grander. I have been kicking myself for not paying attention to dates. I missed the Velasquez exhibition. Le Phooee Enorme!
But I wanted to see the building and cared nothing for the new exhibition so I visited the science museum or Musee de Decoverte as we French say. I can pretty much read simple French and tried out the interactive exhibits. I learned that despite my exercise these last two weeks, I have a very rapid heart beat. There was lots to touch and sniff and observe. And the building was very grand with a lot of statuary and a dome and mosaics and frescos about industry and science.
And then back up the Champs where I just happened (cough) to run into the original Laduree shop and somehow (coughity cough) found myself in the boutique buying more macarons from a charming young man eager to fulfill my every wish. And then near the Arc I found myself in the Drugstore Publis--pay no attention to the name it's a collection of luxury eateries and boutiques--standing at the Pierre Herme counter buying--macarons. I don't know how this could have possibly happened. Unless--macarons are rapidly becoming as much an obsession as cheese!
So Mesdames et Messieurs, it is time for the Macaron Taste Off.
I am going to try to compensate for the difference between the gracious treatment I received at Laduree even though they were very busy and the off hand treatment I received as the lone customer at Pierre Herme. The flavors are going to be different. I could not find exact equivalents, but I'll try to be close. I have dined, so hunger is not a factor. Shall we begin?
Stop teasing, Pil! Let's go!
Your wish is my command. I am beginning with a Pierre Herme lemon and olive oil infusion. Its scent is divine. Each cookie costs 2.50 E, and had jolly well better be worth it. Oooh. Ummmm. A soft, yielding almond shell. This is lovely. I forgive the off hand young man.
What's next?
Lemon from Laduree. Scent less divine. But oh the burst of flavor on the bite. I would say that Laduree is more delicate than Pierre Herme. I can't decide. I'd better have a second helping.
This is just an excuse, isn't Pil?
I don't know what you mean--ahem. I have a sort of vanilla job from Pierre Herme. Interesting. A ginger taste to the ganache. I think the cookie is a bit too soft, but it was in a bag not a box like from Laduree, but that's because I had less cash on me. It's still wonderful--an incredible taste treat.
And now apricot from Laduree. The box does make a difference in texture. To get a small box you must order six macarons, and you can pick the flavors at this shop. More cookie and jammy apricot ganache.
Well. I cannot declare a winner. There are different flavors and different textures and both are wonderful. What I can say without reservation is that when you come to Paris you must try macarons!
A demain
The lemon sounds delish!
ReplyDeleteThey all are and unfortunately addicting.
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