A Walk in the Park

Bonjour Mes Amies,

The park in question is the Tete d'Or, a very large and beautiful place, where I spent happy hours wandering in nature.  Lyon is a large city and has a metro, trams, and busses, but I prefer walking, and the city is very walkable and is flat on my side of the Rhone.
Google Maps gave me some fluky directions though.   Fortunately the park was easy to find anyway, and I did not get lost this time either going or coming. I just needed to be careful to come out the same gate I went in.  My way took me through an older and posher part of town with a lot of big handsome houses that need a staff to maintain.  I'm guessing most of them have been divided into flats.
The park is lush with emerald lawns and a lot of trees.  There's a big lake, smaller ponds and several fountains.  The trees sport various shades of green and different shapes and textures to the trunks and leaves.
In the middle is a wild animal park called the African Plain that visitors can stroll through for free.  The animals are not in cages and gave been given a natural habitat as far as possible in France. I did not see all the animals.  The zebras and crocodiles eluded me, but I saw the giraffes, the bat tailed fox, a cute little rat job I can't remember the name of, ostriches, and various monkeys.  Ahem.  Some of those monkeys were New World monkeys and not from Africa at all.
There are cafes, too, and an amusement park that was closed.  I walked around a lot and I think I saw most of it, but I know I did not cover all the park.  The last thing I visited was the lovely rose garden, which had a huge variety all in bloom this time of year and splashing fountains.
I went to the grocery store this morning, but dinner tonight is just me polishing off the chicken and potatoes, but at the store I got fixin's for Kir Royale because what's Birthday Week in France without an aperitif.  Here's how to do it.  Put a little Cream de Cassis (That's black current liquor) say about a teaspoon full depending on the size of your glass.  Pour in some sparking wine because that's what makes in "Royale," and then top off with sparking water.  If you don't have or don't like sparkling wine make a regular kir the same with with dry white wine. Relax, sip, and enjoy.
My Birthday Week Treat for the Day is tartlette citron--a little lemon pie with a thick creamy filling.  Very sweet and lemony, too.  Yum!
A demain

Lugdunum

Bonjour Mes Amies,
I know you want to hear about the food and drink, but I like history, too, and this is my blog so . . .
Lyon is a Roman foundation.  The Gauls lived nearby, but oddly did not occupy the peninsula between the two rivers--and surely both were important trade routes, but instead used the hill on the far side of the Saone as a sacred site.  Dunum is a Celtic word indicating a fort, so the Romans adopted the Gaul's name for the Fortress of the God Lugus.  The hill top was an important site for all the tribes of Gaul and priests gathered at certain times of the year for ceremonies and sacrifice.
In the First Century BCE the Romans completed their conquest of Gaul and immediately recognized the strategic importance of the site.
Lugdunum quickly become the administrative center of both Gaul and the Romanized part of Germania.  The Emperor Claudius was born in the city and, retaining affection for the place, visited several times.  The Romans held sway for some five centuries, and when the Germans arrived the city became the Capital of Burgundy.
I went to the Gallo-Roman Museum today to explore the city's origin and history.  The museum was a longish walk from my home, but the day was very pleasant.  I had my route nicely mapped out.  Well.  I mean well, but I came upon the funicular that runs up to the top of Fourviere, which is the hill beyond the Saone that dominates the cityscape. That's where the most important part of the Roman city was, but remains of buildings and artifacts pop up pretty much wherever one digs in Lyon.
I lucked in to a day of free admission, and I enjoyed my visit.  For one thing I love mosaics, and many excellent examples are on display.  There are also a variety of artifacts, statues, and monuments nicely labeled in both English and French.  Local Roman finds are also displayed in the Musee de Beaux Arts.
After I visited the museum, I spent some time climbing around the Roman Theatre--rather heavily restored in places.  The theatre is a sort of park, so one can visit for free if one is not interested in the museum.
On my way across the Saone, I passed a market.  It was still going strong when I came back, so I turned aside.  Remember this is Birthday Week, and I was looking for indulgence.  Well, I had come to the right place.  The place was packed, but it was a fun excursion on a Sunday afternoon.  I was deeply tempted by the sausages and cheese but maybe some other time.  I did come way with a rotisserie chicken and some potatoes.  What they do is put potatoes under the rotisserie and the chicken drippings drip and cook the potatoes.  Madame spooned up some extra dripping for me.  I bought this using my very limited French.  Ha ha!  The truth is that these markets are such a tourist attraction that they probably all speak some English, but I try to be extra polite.
Is  the food good, Pil?
Yes. It's lovely and very satisfying.  I did have to add some salt, but I carry salt with me because I am just that cool.
A demain!

A Lot of Lovely Art and Food

Bon Jour Mes Amies,
There is a trend that I am going to partake of--not just Birthdays--but Birthday Weeks!  So in the week leading up to my birthday my plan is to indulge myself mostly with large amounts of saturated fat.  And possibly sugar. Sound good?
I begin blogging at breakfast because I want to share my croissant and butter with you.  I have my strong English tea to go with it.  Mmmmm.  Ohhhh.  Ahhhh.  French butter is the best!  Demi sel has just the right level of sea saltiness. And this is raw milk butter from pastured cows.  The internet says it's health food.  It must be true.
Now let's try it with some lavender honey that I got yesterday when I bought my olive oil.
That's insanely tasty!
Now I'm back.  I came back early and for a wonder did not get lost this time.  The weather forecast is for thundershowers, and it's pleasantly cool here.  In the spirit of indulgence I am having an apero with some Crement, which is French non-champagne sparking wine, some olives and some nuts.
My target for the day was the Musee de Beaux Arts as I needed an indoor activity given the uncertain weather.  It was a good choice!  Lyon is a very walkable city, so I set off on foot having carefully plotted my course.  The museum is housed in a grand building with a lovely cortile and garden, which would be a great place to hang out in nicer weather.  I think there's a cafe, too.
The collection is impressive.  There is an audio guide one can rent for three euros, but I figured I'd know what I was looking at, and I was right.  Some of the walls are adorned with murals by Puvis de Chavanne whom I like because his images are pretty.  I started with the antiquities, and since I had them all to myself at that point, I actually enjoyed them more than at the British Museum.
I also enjoyed the Late Medieval Collection, but I have taste for this period and especially the polychrome wood carvings.  I came upon a set by Pieter Bruegel the Elder of the Four Elements:  Fire, Water, Air, and Earth.  I was greatly taken by them, and I had not known of of these works before.
You can also find Rubens, Van Dyck, and even Rembrandt.  There are some fine Tinterettos and Veronese as well.  I enjoyed the peaceful landscapes by Corot, but all the distinguished French painters are represented.  I won't list them all.  At any rate it was a fine way to spend several hours in Lyon.  I paused as alway as I crossed and recrossed the Rhone.  I love to watch the water flow!
Now for some cheese!  And red wine.  I'm drinking my usual Chateau Cheapaux that I pulled off the shelf.  It's an AOC Cotes du Rhone.  Not the best wine I've ever had, but just fine. The cheese is St. Marcellin, a product for which this region is famous--along the Cotes du Rhone wine.  It's very soft and creamy with a definite scent although I would not call it stinky.  Like all good cheeses the flavor develops in the mouth to a satisfying richness.   It's a cows milk cheese, and I would venture to say that if you like Camembert (and I do) you will like St. Marecellin (and I do).  Being from the same region, the cheese and wine are lovely together.  I also brought some of the English Cheddar with me.  It is likewise lovely with the wine. For dessert I had butter.  Yum.
A demain.

French Friday

Bonjour, mes amies,
After working yesterday so nicely my camera connection is being fussy again, but you can check out the shot I took of the Coronation Coach under A Royal Day out.
Lyon is France's second city, and even the Parisians recognize the place as the Gastronomy Capital of France, and thus, according to the French, of the Entire Galaxy.  Lyon is also a city of two rivers, and I crossed them both!
I didn't have any particular plans today beyond visiting Les Halles de Paul Bocuse and walking around.  Let's start with the food, shall we?  Half a block and across the street is this fabulous covered (and upscale) market named after the legendary chef and Lyon native Paul Bocuse.  He also has a culinary award named after him--the Bocuse d'Or, so you know the offerings are going to be good.
But Youza!  I got there early so the place was fairly empty of customers and not all the stands were open, but was displayed was--spectacular!  What do you want?  Fruit and vegetables?  Fish?  Meat?  Charcuterie?  Cheeeeeeese!!! SUGAR? The pastries are works of art.  Even the makings of a nice mezze or as we French say apero, something I am going to have to look into on a future visit.
Did you do anything but gawk and drool, Pil?
Yes!  I bought stuff, and I spoke (very elementary) French.
Ok. Spill.  What did you get?
I got two croissants--the real kind made with butter.  Do not buy crescent shaped croissants! I got some of that divine lait cru (raw milk) demi sel (lightly salted) butter from Pascal Bellevaire, and I got a small St. Marcellin cheese, something for which Lyons is famous.  The croissants are in my freezer.  We French like to have them for our weekend petite dejeuner.  Real French people dunk them in cafe au lait.  Fake French people comme moi slather them with butter.
After stashing my take I lit out for the city center and the tourist information office.  I am here for three weeks, so I was not in a rush to go see tourist sights. As I said Lyon is a city of two rivers, and the first one I came to was the gently flowing Rhone.  I crossed it to the Presqu'ile which is the peninsula between the two rivers.  I easily found the tourist office and was immediately provided with a map of the city.
Lyon is a very handsome city--or at least the parts of it I saw were.  There are some lovely squares with charming fountains, but I had another river to cross.
But oh. There was a market on the near bank of the Saone.  I had to make a detour and walk through it.  It was busy, and while not as elegant as Les Halles, the offerings looked pretty comprehensive and tasty to me.  There wasn't any pastry, but it seemed like every single street had at least one bakery or patisserie with enticing displays.
I eventually crossed the Saone via a pedestrian bridge and came upon some cobbled pedestrianized streets.  I was in the Tourist Zone, so it was fun to lick some windows.  I also purchased some fancy extra virgin olive oil and something I will reveal to you tomorrow at breakfast.
Then I headed back.  Despite the map I got lost coming home.  Sigh.  Citadines is rather tucked away.  I'll figure it out one of these days.
But I wanted to prepare for the weekend so I grabbed by shopping bag and went supermarket hunting at the Cours LaFayette, which is a giant shopping mall not too far from me.  I carefully noted landmarks this time, but once I entered the mall, I could not find the groceries at first.  I had a good look around the store, too.  There were a lot of what I'd call processed food, but there was also a lot of traditional stuff.  There was a whole aisle dedicated to snacks for the apero.  This is a concept I can really get behind. I came home with some pasta among other things, so I could try out my fancy olive oil.
So it's pasta fresca of a kind I'd never seen? filled with ham and dressed with salt, garlic powder, and the olive oil and served with chilled rose.  It's not exactly French, but it's still nice!

Dans Le Eurostar

Bonjour!
Ok, Pil, what up with the French?
Well, since I am in France now, it makes sense to me.
Howdja get there?
See the title of the post!  I took the Eurostar direct from London St. Pancras to Lyon.  I wanted very much to come here, and I like the Eurostar, but I dreaded the transfer with luggage on the Paris Metro. Imagine my delight to find that the Eurostar does come here without the pesky Paris stop.  The ultimate destination is Marseilles, but before that the train stops in Avignon.  My journey was a little over four hours.  These trains do not run that often, and mine left early, so I had to get up and go.
I had a quick trip to St. Pancras International--a very snazzy train station full of luxury shops.  But do not become distracted.  In order to get on the train one must go through security as at the airport and passport control.  They close access a half hour before the train leaves and are Very Strict.  Be warned and show up on time.
I had a window seat, and my seat mate was a very pleasant English woman.  There was a delay due to some traffic issue in the tunnel, but the rest of the trip was smooth.  I was bemused by a conversation among the family in the seat in front of me.  Mom (I think they are Canadian) was adamant that they have extra adaptors.  She'd set one out especially, but Pop did not pack it.  Mom would not let this go and went on and on.  Let me say something about adaptors.  I brought mine--two sets, because the UK and Continental Europe have different sorts of plugs.  In London at least they are widely available, which makes me think tourist and their gadgets just show up not knowing the deal.
Ahh. I'm sipping the rose I pulled off the supermarket shelf and am noshing on nuts.  I'm settled in at last, but it took some getting here.  Once I got off the train in Lyon things began to get murky.
I knew the name of the street I was looking for, and I knew the direction I needed to go, but I could not find the street or any indication of where to go.  I wandered and circled.  Finally I went back to the station hoping I could find some kind of tourist information desk.  All I could find was SNCF (Society Nationale de Chemin de Fer, i.e. railway) information, so seeing no alternative I got in line. I explained to the young woman at the desk what I needed.  Without my asking she looked up my accommodations on the internet and printed out a map!  I do not ever EVER want to hear about how the French are rude and unhelpful.  If you need to bad mouth French people, please do not do it in front of me.  This is not the first time, I have received great kindness.
Ok.  Armed with the map, I set out again, but it was not easy.  Citadines is rather tucked away, but I did get here clearly.  Then I had to set out for groceries.  I'd passed a zillion--on conservative estimate--grocery stores on my way here, but could I find them again?  Ha!  After much wandering I did find a grocery store very nearby, but it was one of the ones that close in the middle of the day. Fortunately I'd arrived just a few minutes before opening so I was able to get my stuff--including that nice rose that did not violate my five euro rule.  But this one is kind of a mini mart, so I'm going to have to hit up the supermarket in the giant shopping center, but also I am very close to something called Les Halles de Paul Bocuse, which has very serious food.  I'll visit tomorrow when I explore my new city.
A demain!

A Rainy London Day

A Proper Good Morning to You,
I came back a bit early for two reasons--it's raining pretty hard, and I am catching the Eurostar to Lyon very early tomorrow so I need to mostly pack up this evening.
The temperature dropped by ten degrees Centigrade from yesterday, so I was a bit chilly this morning as I made my way down Kingsway to the Strand. It was an easy walk downhill to Somerset House, and I was there before my target opened so I strolled around.
My first target for the day was the Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House.  There are a lot of things at Somerset House.  It used to hold the Admiralty Offices, and one time I sneaked in there to use the toilet and did not get caught.  Ha!  But the Courtauld is a small but very distinguished art collection which works from the Late Middle Ages right up to the Early Twentieth Century.  I find their Impressionist and Post Impressionist exhibits more impressive than the Tate Modern's.  One of the highlights is Manet's A Bar at the Folies Bergere, but there are also some very nice Matisseses and a lot of intriguing Cezannes.  I always start at the top floor and work my way down.  This generally takes me in reverse chronological order, but since I know what I'm looking at, it does not matter.
Also at Somerset House I happened upon a perfume "tasting."  Well, why not?  So I went through with a group of British women about my age and we sniffed and made notes.  Some of the scents were lovely.  A couple were--real stinckers.  No, I do not want to walk around smelling like a burnt out barbecue pit.
By this time it was raining lightly.  I found my tube station, but on the way I came across the Twining's Shop--the original dating from 1731 or thereabouts.  It's long, narrow, and packed to the rafters with tea.  I stopped in to look.  Of course, I did!  Besides most of the usual Twining's offerings, there was some fancier and correspondingly more expensive blends.  I might go back to pick up something before I come home.
Then I tubed off in search of the Wallace Collection.  I miscalculated my stop, so I had to walk and consult my map a lot but I got there eventually.  The Wallace Folks are a class act.  They were offering visitors plastic sleeves for our dripping umbrellas.
The house is worth visiting for its own sake.  There are very few remaining aristocratic mansions still in existence in London, and fewer still are open to the public.  But this one also happens to be crammed with paintings, fabulous furniture, and other object d'art.  It's also free.
Inevitably there are Canalettos--the dude was prolific!  But the collection includes a lot of lovely Dutch genre paintings and a lot of landscapes I would not be ashamed to hang on the walls of my condo, since the British are so narrow minded about letting me make off with the Constables.  You can even find Rembrandt and Rubens.  Most people want to see Franz Hals's Laughing Cavalier.  I also had a good look at Fragonard's The Swing.  As I remarked to a fellow viewer, "It's a very naughty painting."  She laughed and agreed.
I picked up the Central Line at Bond Street to return to Holborn, but I did not go straight home.  Instead I made for Neal's Yard Dairy for More Cheese. Want to watch while I try some?
First a long, refreshing drink of pear cidre.  I'll be drinking wine in France.  I didn't here because I like cidre just fine, wine is expensive, and getting it from the grocery store--is involved because of anti theft devices.  Anyway.  I have a nice, mild goat cheese called Dornstone, which is slightly salty and very good.  The flavor develops in the mouth.
The next cheese is Cheddar--the famous Montgomery Cheddar--in other words the Real Thing.  My first bite of actual, as opposed to industrial Cheddar, six years ago was a revelation.  I am trying a different harder and stronger sort this time, but oooh.  So good.  It's so rich and cheesy.  That orange stuff you get in the supermarket is a faint echo.  The apple cidre is perfect with it.
Cheerio!  The next time I post it will be from Lyon, France.

A Royal Day Out

A Proper Good Morning to You.
"A Royal Day Out" is what it said on my ticket.  Yes, I went to Buckingham Palace!  It's been open to the public for many years now, but I have never before been in London at the right time, so it was on my list.  I admire HMQ Elizabeth II for her devotion to her country and duty, so I got a combi ticket for the Queen's Gallery, Royal Mews, and State Rooms and claimed my discount for being over sixty, which saved me three pounds.  I offered my passport, but the gracious young woman at the ticket counter explained to me that they just took people at their word adding it doesn't matter how they look.  The ticket prices include auto guides which are very well done.
It took some getting there.  My local station was closed for departures.  Fine. I walked down to Covent Garden Station.  I could have in fact walked all the way to Green Park, but it would have taken me about forty minutes, and I wanted to get there early.  I anticipated a line as I knew the Palace was a popular site.  In fact there was no line, and I got a timed entry to the Queen's Gallery right away.
I lucked (at least one of my readers would use another word) into a wonderful exhibition of Canalettos.  He is in my opinion a very underrated artist.  Modern taste has moved on from the naturalistic and idealized, so Canaletto is not especially in favor with the art establishment, but in his day he was deservedly popular and very successful.  Canaletto specialized in vedute--cityscapes--mostly of his native Venice, but he also visited London and did some views of the city and the river.  When I showed his work to my students, they could not believe at first it was a painting thinking because of the clarity and detail, it must be a photo.  But the clarity, detail, and composition is what makes it art.  I appreciate the quality of the light Canaletto creates.  My friend JMW Turner agreed with me.
My next stop was the Royal Mews where HMQ (That's Her Majesty the Queen to you colonials) keeps her cars, horses, and carriages.  Visitors get to meet a couple of the horses.  I saw two large and beautiful bays having their post exercise breakfast.  HMQ names them herself.  The most interesting and beautiful part of the exhibition were the royal coaches.  They have all names and specific purposes and are still used frequently.  When you are appointed as Ambassador to the Court of St. James, one of these coaches will come to fetch you so you can present your credentials to HMQ at St. James's Palace, which is not far from Buckingham Palace.  That one by the way is never open to the public.
Then I had a hiatus before my timed admission to the State Apartments.  I decided to walk down to Victoria Station and snoot around.  The place was a zoo--as always.  And the it turned hot and humid.  I walked back to Green Park where I had some good but horribly overpriced ice cream--rum raisin, if you want to know.
I showed up for my visit and was shown into a room to wait.  Then we were let in to go through security and pick up our audio guides.  The State Rooms are beautiful and grand and very much worth seeing and the audio guide is helpful.  On exhibit were also gifts given to HMQ from various parts of the world.  The highlight as far as I was concerned were the paintings and sculptures from the Royal Collection.  HMQ holds them in trust for the nation, and it is an extraordinarily impressive gathering of art.  I was very taken by an exquisite Vermeer of A Lady at a Virginal.  The Rembrandts are amazing, and of course I always enjoy good portraits.  To my surprise, there were also several lovely marble sculptures by Antonio Canova.
I was tired by then, but the tour ends with a refreshing walk through part of the grounds past green lawns and a lake.  The nice lady at the exit offered me directions.  I wanted Green Park.  I think she just heard park and directed me to Hyde Park, but actually this worked out.  It was probably closer at that point than Green Park and the Hyde Park Corner tube is on the Piccadilly Line, so it's a straight shot to Holborn.
I got some more pear and apple cidre.  Good!  And I had a nice salad.  The main dish is a chicken and mushroom pie, which I find sufficiently English.  It's very tasty.  The "crust" is potato and the filling is nicely mushroomy and chickish with what tastes like thyme gravy.
The forecast tomorrow is for rain, so I am going to have to change my plans for my field trip to Kent to visit a stately home.  No fear!  I have a couple of art galleries on my radar--well, of course I do!