Belem: Museu Nacional dos Coches

 Bom Dia, 

Let me take a bite of apero first. It's some of that fancy, somewhat stinky cheese I got at the gourmet store.  I put it on toast and it melted.  Mmmmmm.  Very good!  It has a semi sharp, complex flavor.  I'll take a sip of the Vinho Verde Rose.

Now for the day's activities.  I had some chores to take care of like toping off my travel card and going to the grocery store.  Then I walked down Rua de Augusta to get the tram at Praca do Comercio.  I did not have to wait long.  I wear a mask on public transportation.  There are always a few of us who do.  Some conductors came around to do a ticket check, and some tourists without ticket struggled to get them from an apparently malfunctioning machine.  One can get ticket on board.  It's cheaper and easier to get them beforehand.

The trip to Belem is long and kind of boring, but worth it. I was lucky to be on a tram that displayed stops, so I knew just where to get off.   All I had to do is cross the street and I was there.  I started at the old museum, and it was nice because I had it to myself.  The ticket guy kept asking me if I wanted a combo ticket to see boats. Uh no. I have no interest in boats.  Then I figured out he was saying both and offering me a combo ticket as the museum comes in two parts.  He also asked me if I was over 65 and wanted a senior discount.  Yes, I did, but I was a little irritated that I didn't have to ask and provide proof of age.

I get a huge kick out of coaches, and the exhibit is well displayed.  Most of the coaches in both museums belonged to the Royal Family of Portugal, and oh boy, are they grand and elaborately decorated.  And also maybe hellish to ride in over rough tiled and cobbled streets before the development of effective suspension.  The old museum is in a vast and beautiful room with an upstairs gallery with portraits of the Royal Family.  I did not know who most of these people were, but it was still fun.

I crossed the street to the new museum where most of the tourists started.  I marveled at the size and grandeur of the coaches and wondered how many horses it would take to pull the thing along even at a slow pace.  The decorations on all the royal and noble coaches is highly symbolic and is meant to send a message to the awestruck viewers about the power and virtue of the occupants.

There are less elaborate vehicles meant for tooling around town on display as well.  Royal children had miniature versions for going about the gardens of their palaces.  Many of the "modern," i.e. Nineteenth Century couches were designed and built in London, but one especially fancy version belonged to Pope Clement XI.

I got the tram back feeling very satisfied with my excursion.

All I wanted was for the trash and recycling taken out.  Now I'm getting clean sheets which is a good thing I guess and clean towels, and heaven knows what else.  How long is this going to take?  The ladies were very nice even though I cannot understand a word of Portuguese, but my floors are wet, but I guess it's good to have everything clean although I would have done it myself or most of it.

For dinner I am having microwaved potatoes doctored up with seasoning and sardine pate.  This is actually better tasting that it sounds.  Pink Vinho Verde goes well with it.

Here's the rePORT!  Ha ha ha ha ha ha. It's ruby port, which is the kind I am most familiar with.  Yes, it taste's familiar. There's nothing special about this, but I am not dealing in anything vintage.

Bye for now.

The History of Money

 Bom Dia,

My apero is a slice of that fancy pants ham from pampered pigs.  It sure is good, but it's chewy and so loaded with saturated fat that I decided to have some green tea with it.

So there's always something, especially when you get to be my age.  One of my ankles was wonky, but I still had a good day out.  I walked a lot, but I was fine.

Fortunately Lisbon is packed with interesting sites.  I made my way to Largo de Sao Juliao to a center sponsored by the Bank of Portugal.  I find it interesting that Portuguese banks are involved in history.   The Millennium Bank offers the archeological site I tried to visit yesterday,  By the way they sent me a nice email apologizing and explaining that yesterday was a national holiday.  Both exhibits are free.

I had to go through a security check for the first time in a Portuguese museum, and then I entered a space of Baroque Splendor.   The place used to be the Church of Sao Juliao, and it's impressive.  One enters the museum itself though a mocked up bank vault.  Inside the visitor is provided with information and a ticket.  As I mentioned entrance is free, but the ticket is used for the interactive features of the museum.  One thing the nice young man at the service desk pointed out to me is an enormous gold bar.  Visitors are invited to touch it, and I did contemplating the 700,000 Euro value of the thing.  Hooeee.  This is my closest encounter with this kind of object.

Then upstairs for historical money.  There's an impressive collection of coins from the earliest use of money in Lydia in Western Asia through the Greeks and Romans.  They even have early Han Dynasty tokens from Ancient China as well as examples of coins and notes from other Dynasties. Then if you care to, you can use your ticket to take quizzes about the Portuguese economy and the European Central Bank.  I did not do well.  I also enjoyed the extensive exhibit of banknotes from all over the world--except apparently North America.  The United States has comparatively dull money.

The other feature of the museum is the remains of a city wall built in the 1200s by King Dinas.  I had never heard of him, but he is a major figure in Portuguese History and having become king at age 12 enjoyed a long and successful reign.  He built the way to protect the waterfront of the River Tejo from pirates as the city had begun to expand far beyond its Moorish Walls, and my neighborhood of Baxia was being developed.

Then I strolled around and licked windows at the numerous touristy shops.  Portugal has gorgeous ceramics mostly impossible to pack, but I like looking.  I'm thinking of treating myself to a pair of candlesticks.

But now for a Port Report.  Ha ha ha ha ha.  SometimesI just crack myself up.

I'm glad someone appreciates your humor.

Today's offering is White Port.  I have never had it.  In fact I've never heard of it.  Sip.  It smells and tastes like Tawny Port.  It's mot bad, but it's not something I'd cross the street for either.

Bye for now

Portuguese Delicacies

 Bom Dia,

I like Portuguese food and drink, and my treats make up for a rather disappointing day.  I'm fine.  I just didn't have the confidence for a forty minute tram ride.  But I came across a site about three minutes walk from my place, and it sounded very cool.

Under a bank lies a major archeological site with many layers dating back to the iron age through the Romans and Moors.  Fun what?  I went to the web site and signed up for the tour.  I was told I'd be notified soon.  The form required my phone number and email.  Did I get a notice?  No.  I thought I might have screwed up the reservation, so I did it again.  Same.  No notice.

I walked down the place, which is really quite close and found everything shut tight including the bank.  I wondered if this was some kind of holiday, so it was closed.  Well, that was disappointing, but Lisbon is fun to walk around, and I resolved to visit some gourmet shops and shell out some Euros on fancy foods.  I'll try the archeology another day.  Fortunately I have a lot of time here.

Let's start with my apero.  When I planned my trip, I vowed to try bacalhau, which is dried salt cod and the National Dish of Portugal.  I have come across it in the form of large slabs of fish fillet.  They smelled fishy, and I would have had no idea what to do with the thing even though there are apparently hundreds of ways to serve the stuff, and I could always google.  Today I found a more user friendly type in the form of bacalhau pate conveniently packaged in small serving sizes.  I toasted some of that good bread I bought and spread it on.

What's it like Pil?

It's definitely fishy, but not too strong.  It's not my favorite thing, but it's definitely edible, and maybe I'll acquire the taste.  I have to say it goes well with my vinho blanco.  I also have small green olives that are very tasty and some almonds.

At another shop I got some Portuguese ham--the kind that comes at 60E a kilo.  But of course I got a much smaller portion.  We can sample it another day along with the fancy cheese I picked out.  I also obtained a sampler of Port.  I'm going to wait until after dinner, but I will report (heh heh re Port!).

Yeah, Pil, you slay us.  Sigh.

Dinner was linguine with smoked salmon sauce, and it was really good. I will definitely get another tin even though it's expensive.  Now let's have a sip of tawny port.  I got a pack of small bottles with various styles of port.  The smell very alcoholic, but the sip is nice. A mild flavor, which is rather fruity, but not grapey. It's nice. Port is fortified wine, so one does not have much of it.  But the sample bottles are small and the right size. 

Bye for now.

Sorry--No Tourist Action Today

 Bom Dia,

I have succumbed to a common digestive issue that afflicts travelers, so I had to scrap my plans for today. Sometimes this happens, and I have no idea why. But I also know I'll be fine.  I have two more weeks here, so losing a day, while annoying, isn't a catastrophe.  Later in the afternoon I felt able to go to the cash machine and the grocery store.  

And I am having an apero in the shape of a hard boiled egg and some smoked salmon conserva.  The stuff is expensive, but it's very good.  The smoke is mildish.  If my digestive system does not object I can proceed to dinner.

Bye for now

Belem: Museu Colecao Berardo

 Bom Dia,

Let's get straight to apero, shall we?  I stopped at a shop on my way home and picked up a cod cake with cheese.  I just had a bite.  Pretty darned tasty.  You have to like fish and cheese.  I do.  At the grocery store this morning I was tempted by some Vinho Verde, but mine is rose.  It's turned hot and humid, so this should be especially refreshing.  Shall we have a sip?

You say "we" a lot, but you selfishly keep all this food and drink for yourself.  Phooey.

Mmmm.  I'm afraid I didn't hear you.  I'm too immersed in this delicious Portuguese specialty.  The fish cake is slightly crunchy, but then one gets too the ooey gooey cheese filling.  Yumsy.  I'm trying to work up to bacalhau, which is the dried salt cod.  It's kind of scary really, and smells very fishy.

I topped up my travel card and strolled down to Praca do Comercio where I picked up (a modern) Tram 15E that would take me to Belem.  I'll be going there a lot this week because there are some major historical sights that are on Lisbon's must see list.  It was kind of a long ride out, and I wasn't sure where to get off, but I recognized a historical landmark that I intend to visit tomorrow when it's open, that I was pretty sure was near my target.  I was right and after a bit of a walk I came upon the Museu Colecao Berardo.

It was my first stop in Belem because it's Monday and most museums are closed.  This one is dedicated to Twentieth Century art and was the brain child of zillionaire banker Jose Berardo.  Apparently the museum is not well known, but the collection and display are impressive.  Placards in Portuguese and English introduce and describe each style.  The visitor is directed through the exhibit in chronological order, so it's like a course on Modern Art History.  I found this very useful.  The collection includes at least one work by most of the major artists of the mid and late Twentieth Century.

Good examples of Abstract Expressionism, Cubism, Dada, Surrealism as well as Pop Art are on offer.  Now my tastes run more towards Renaissance and Baroque, but I found some of the works very compelling. For some reason I can't fathom the geometric works of Malevich and Modrian speak to me.  Go figure.

I found the tram stop and came back and snooted around a few touristy shops near Parca do Comercio, but it was hot and humid, and I was getting hungry.  We'll be visiting Belem again tomorrow.

And that cod cake with cheese was really good.  I'll have to go back for more.

Bye for now

I'd Move In!

Bom Dia

Let me settle in with my apero.  We're having an egg for protein and some nice, salty almonds and a few sips of some nice Portuguese white wine.

I filled my travel card at the metro station and stopped to help some fellow North Americans, and then proceeded to the tram station.  Trams are fun to ride.  The ones made for those steep, narrow streets are not efficient, and our journey was impeded by a car parked on the tracks.  The driver rang the bell politely, but the car did not move through increasing irate bell rings.  Finally the car moved off, and we were on our way.  But the tram was packed!  I was sitting in front, and the exit is in the back.  The tram was so packed that I did not make it to the exit in time.  I had to get off at the next stop, which fortunately was not too far away.  The result, though, was that I was turned around, and had a hard time finding my target.

This worked out though because the museum can be visited only with a guided tour, and one was just about to start.  It's called the Museum of Decorative Arts, but this is a little misleading.  The building is former nobleman's townhouse, and it was bought by a wealthy banker, who had begun his fine art/antiques collection at age sixteen. I used to teach high school and can attest that even rich American teenagers do not do this.  The museum now houses his entire and very impressive collection and consists of a series of period rooms mostly Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century.  Now I far prefer period rooms to exhibits in glass cases.  I want to see the art and furniture in context and get a glimpse of how the other .01% lived.

Our guide was pleasant and very well informed and great at calling our attention to a telling detail and putting the collection in historical context.  For example there is a lot of both genuine and fake Chinoiserie.  Artists from China and Japan made pieces for wealthy Europeans to order, but if that was too much for your pocket book, European artists churned out semi convincing "Asian" pieces.

I spotted a portrait of Catherine of Braganza.  She is one of my favorite Portuguese figures as I am both a student of British History and dedicated tea drinker.  Catherine was sent to Britain to marry King Charles II, who treated her with courtesy and kindness except for all his other women.  But Catherine did have. lasting impact on British Culture.  She introduced tea to the court, and the population soon followed in consuming this elixir of life.

I learned some things.  The Moorish custom of having women sit on the floor on cushion while men sat on chairs survived for centuries after the Christians took over.  Noblewomen would have beautiful little tables made with short legs, so they could put down their tea cups or fans.  If I could have fit one of them in my luggage, I would have made off with it.

Afterwards I found the tram stop and came back.  I took the Famous 28 back, and, yes, it was crowded, and the day had turned hot. But I was very satisfied with the day's activity.

I'm going to have linguine and tuna fish again.  It was a successful combination.

Bye for now

I Got a Good Walk Anyway

 Bom Dia,

I decided to give myself an easy day after my exertions yesterday.  I identified a target museum nearby--one that featured historic design.  Sounded fun!  And then I planned to spend some money on fancy canned fish.

First I went to the ATM.  Now Lisbon is rife with ATMs.  It seems like there's one on every block--just like the pastry shops.  They are everywhere. But they are stand alones, and I don't quite trust them, so I went to the one by the bank and got my infusion of Euros.  Then I headed to the grocery store for some supplies.  I dropped them off and headed out.

Lisbon is a wonderful walking city, and I found plenty of windows to lick and future opportunities to spend quite a bit of money.  The goods are good.  But I could not find the museum.  I walked the length of the street.  I wondered if I'd mistaken the street and tried others.  I went back home to consult the guidebook and pin point the location on the map.  It just wasn't there.

Fine.  Time for Conservas.  Conservas are the tinned fish--in many varieties and styles that are a famous and highly valued product of the Iberian Peninsula.  Since I more or less follow the Mediterranean Diet, I eat a lot of fish anyway. The shop was floor to ceiling tins of fish and there was more downstairs.  I had a good look around.  One of the shop assistants offered me information and asked where I was from.  Upon hearing I was from the United States he said, "I wish I could go to the United States, but I'm stuck in Portugal."  Uh.  Some of us don't see it that way.  I never know what to say to Europeans who wish to come to the U.S.  "Oh honey," probably wouldn't go over well.

The young woman who rang up my order was charming.  She gave me stickers for my tins and was thrilled when I gave exact change.  I try to do this if I can because some one in Paris last spring mentioned a coin shortage.  She also gave me an enthusiastic wine recommendation. The best known Portuguese wine, apart from Port, is Vinho Verde (which is a white wine with a green tint), and you can find it at Trader Joe's among other places.  Anyway she wanted me to try a particular region, which produces a Vinho Verde that is dry and especially fruity.  So I'll look for it.

Hey, Pil, what did you buy?

Well, I played it safe this time.  I got some smoked salmon and fancy tuna, but I intend to branch out.  Gotta get those Omega 3s

My apero is the rest of the ham and some green olives I got at the grocery store.  Beware the pits.  I also have to finish off the red wine before it goes bad.  I haven't decided what to have for dinner.  It probably won't be exciting.

Since I don't have a museum to report on, I'll discuss the city.  I knew very little about Lisbon before I came and did some minimal research and picked a place to stay pretty much at random.  And I got lucky because this area is the best place to stay for a tourist.  It's very walkable, and I can get to most places on foot.  The buildings are beautiful. Some are covered in painted ceramic tiles.  It's touristy, which is fine with me--I'm a tourist, and some of the shops are positively elegant.  I can easily find anything I need within a very short walk. I have not encountered a Portuguese person who did not speak excellent English, and they have all been kind and gracious. 

Drivers are very polite to pedestrians and will stop to let one cross the street even if they have the green light!  I was bewildered by this at first.  Also at crosswalks with traffic lights, what I call Paris Rules are in effect.  If the light is red, but there is no on coming traffic, go ahead and cross.

In short, I'm glad I came.  Truthfully, I was anxious about plunging into an unknown place and was sorely tempted to return to a city I was familiar with.  Going somewhere new was a decided challenge, and I am very happy that I took it up.

Bye for now