Palazzo dei Normanni

 

Buon giorno,

It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the thing that Everyone who comes to Palermo wants to see, and what I wished to see the most.

Sicilian History is . . . complicated, and I'm not going to try and sort it out for you right here, but I taught ninth graders, and one thing I am really good at is barebones over simplification. So we have a lot of ambitious and energetic young men in Normandy, who knew they would get no land, so they became mercenaries and were quite good at it. Since Southern Italy was unstable due to rivalries between recently arrived Germans, Byzantines determined to reconquer the peninsula, and Muslims who ruled Sicily, Norman Warriors found a ready market for their skills.  Members of the de Hautville Family quickly realized that conquering for other people was pointless when they could conquer for themselves. Marriage alliances and frequent battles soon followed.

What with one thing and another over many years, the Normans managed to take over Southern Italy and Sicily itself. Being rough hewn northerners they were mightily impressed with the sophistication and luxury they found in Muslim Sicily and soon adjusted to their new surroundings. The Normans remained Christian, but the early members of the dynasty employed Muslims in their government and some adopted Muslim dress--very practical in Sicily's climate.  The Palazzo dei Normanni is a prime example of the syncretism of the two cultures.

I enjoyed my visit, but the place was packed, and I spent far more time waiting in line than I did seeing the actual sights. Also the royal apartments were closed, so I missed those.

The highlight of the visit is the one everyone looks forward to--the Capella Palatina or palace chapel. It is gorgeous and in the Byzantine style. It reminded me strongly of Ravenna because of the incredible mosaics. Gold glass gives the images a glitter quality that makes them come alive. But the place was packed and I began to feel a touch claustrophobic, so after enjoying the view I squirmed my way out.

One of the things I like to do in Italy is indulge in my favorite cold cuts for my apero. I never eat such things at home because I'm elderly and need to protect my health, but European products are made in traditional ways, and if one if mindful about buying the animals have been humanly raised. Mmm. Such salty, fatty, meaty goodness! Neither of these items comes from Sicily. Breseola is from Lombardy. Mortadella comes from Emilia-Romagna.

Ciao for Now