La Samarataine Restored But Revised

 Bon Jour, mes amies,

Oof.  I'm still jet lagged and also worn out by my not-very-strenuous exertions today.  I did not want to commit to a museum because I wanted to be back early before the rain started and also to watch a bike race.  There's an even bigger bike race tomorrow.   Anyway the plan is to give myself an easy weekend, and then on Monday get a museum pass and start being serious.

The first order of the day was to go to reception because I had pushed every possible button on my microwave and could not get the thing to work.  I took a photo of the microwave with my phone and showed it to the kindly young woman who quickly straightened me out.  Many places provide a notebook full of instructions and information, so I don't want any potential travelers to be intimidated.  And one can, as I did, always ask for help.

Les Halles says it's open on Sundays, but I don't quite trust it, so I made sure to replenish my groceries this morning.  I went early hoping for a less crowded store and to find someone to help me with the check out machines.  They have no regular checkers. Nevertheless, I love foreign grocery stores!  This was a better visit than my last hurried one when I was fresh off the plane.  I was able to take my time and explore the offerings.  I actually did not get much.  Notably, the store offered various "cheese samplers."  Well.  There's no resisting that is there.  I got a small one, and we shall have a tasting later on. 

Then I was confronted with the machines.  I had no clue, but I gamely made an attempt.  A store employee saw me struggling, and I asked for help in my wretched French.  She showed me what to do.  I think she was relieved that I found my ineptitude funny rather than frustrating.  I completed the transaction and got my receipt and change all by myself and felt I had accomplished something.  Maybe by the end of the trip I'll know how to use the automatic check out.

For many decades Paris boasted a huge department store down by the Seine called La Samarataine that catered to the public that did not aspire to the heights of Printemps and Galeries LaFayette.  I had a look around years and years ago.  It was crowded and struck me as chaotic.  Products seemed jumbled together in no discernible order, but it was a lively and authentic Parisian experience.  The store was closed in 2005 because it was deemed unsafe and the building sat empty and unloved for years.  Finally it was repaired, renovated, and reopened a couple of years ago.  I decided to have a look.  For one thing the building is a splendid example of Art Deco, and it really is lovely, with ornate staircases and murals inside.  Also inside are a series of luxury boutiques. . Think Harrods without the food hall.  Every designer you ever heard of and some luxe ones you have not are represented.  It's very high toned and elegant, and the shop assistants made sure to greet me graciously.  Fashion is not my thing, but walking around a beautiful and historic building definitely is.  What I was really after was a squirt of tremendously expensive perfume.  One of my goals is to try a different scent each day.  I went to Sephora yesterday and just forgot to tell you about Le Jardin by M. Li by Hermes.  Very nice.  Sweet and floral.  Today I helped myself to something from Guerlain called Bois de Armenie that smells sort of like vanilla--also very nice.

After that I strolled about licking windows on the Rue di Rivoli and strolled up Rue de St. Honore and passed Les Halles and walked up part of Rue Montorgueil, which is a Serious Food Zone.  My appetite and I will have to spend some time there for sure.

OK.  I have brought my cheese to room temp, and I really, really want to eat the whole thing. These are stinky! But I have cut the samples in half.  This is good cheese.  Later I hope to introduce you to great cheese.  Are you ready?  We will start with the fresh goat cheese.  I can find a better version of this at my local Trader Joe's.  This one is a little more goaty than I like, but the smooth texture is nice.  Next comes some St. Marcellin IGP  (which is Indication Geographique Protegee, i.e. AOP lite)from Central France.  This is a cow's milk cheese.  Mmmm.  I like it.  It's a bit salty, but more complex than the unnamed and unclassified goat cheese.  Here comes some actual AOP Cantal.  It's a cow's milk cheese firmer than the St Marcellin and also has a much subtler flavor and aftertaste.  I would recommend this to French Cheese novices.  And last but not least--my favorite.  It's some AOP Livarot.  Now I confess to bias on account of my ethnicity.  I love Norman Cheeses.  Camembert is the best known, but Livarot is my favorite.  Let's have a bite--note I have trimmed the rind off.  It's good.  I have had stronger and better, but I'll take it.

A demain