Bon jour mes amies,
I'm posting later than normal because of my visit to the Louvre. I'll have to stream the replay of the bike race once I've sorted myself out.
I went out a bit early to walk a few hundred meters to the famous bakery near my place. They have a contest each year for the best baguette, and the proprietor won one year. I was there for croissants. The place does a brisk business, but the shop assistants were efficient and friendly. I (cough) spoke French because if there is one thing I can do in French is order croissants. I did not utter a word of English, but of course the young woman could tell, and she said, "Thank you. Have a nice day." I said, "Bonne journee." The croissants went straight into the freezer. I think I'll thaw one for Sunday, and it will still be perfect. The same trick works for baguettes. They don't keep, which is why you see people buying one or more each day. When I get one I cut it in half and freeze on of the halves.
Then I went to the grocery store and I checked myself out! Yes, I did it. Hoo eee. I have a genuine sense of accomplishment. After dumping my takings off, I went back to Les Halles for some other shopping. I had a particular store in mind that I kept running into while wandering around. Naturally this time I had a hard time finding it, and I ended up spending a fair number of euros. I won't say what I bought because some of it was presents.
The thing I was looking forward to most when I contemplated Paris was the Louvre. I've spent so many happy hours there enjoying the great art and the building itself. My experience today was not that great. It's not a long walk from my place to the Louvre, but I figured I go early, and it was good thing I did because the line for my appointment time had already formed and while I waited the line grew ever longer and longer behind. I chatted with a couple of young British men who had not been before. They wanted to see the Mona Lisa. So does the rest of the galaxy, so good luck with that. When the time came the line began to move and we actually got in pretty quickly.
But, man oh man, the place was a complete zoo! I realized how spoiled I was before being able to show up at opening day after day waving my museum pass around and spending hours in each section of the museum, and then leaving once the afternoon crowds showed up. Even with the system, the place was packed and noisy. I went to see Nike of Samothrace because I always have to, and then decided I'd have more luck and fewer people in the antiquities. But it was still crowded and noisy, and I simply could not enjoy the exhibits while dodging people and their selfie sticks. After a while, my brain started screaming "Get me out of here," and I began to look for the exit. I am very sorry to post anything negative, but this was my authentic experience. I may try again this trip because I'd hate to give up on such a fabulously rich place packed with my old art friends.
I have recruited my forces with apero (consisting of olives and Kir Royale) and am now feeling more like a human being. For dinner I am having a galette filled with ham and cheese just like the Bretons make. A galette is a thin crepe like pancake made with buckwheat flour. I learned to like them when I visited Brittany, and I can make them at home when I find buckwheat flour in the store, which I do sometimes--and then I fill them California fusion style. Now the best accompaniment is cidre, but I don't have any so rose will do. I followed the directions for reheating said galette. Let's have a bite, shall we? It's good! Better than I ever made. The buckwheat has a strong earthy/nutty flavor I enjoy and which goes well with the melted cheese. The melted cheese with ham is even better. This is very satisfying!
But, wait, there's more. I broke into the butter, and I'm going to have some for dessert. Beillevaire butter is the best I have ever tasted. I can in fact get superior butter at home if I am willing to pay for--and I am, but there is no comparison. The Beillevaire butter (I choose the demi sel with sea salt) is made from raw milk, which is not exactly legal in the United States. I'm having a small slice of pain Polaine thickly spread. It's divine.
A demain
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