Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Public Transportation--of Various Sorts




Guss Gott!
Well, Meinen Freuden I have been here a week, so I have decided to adopt a characteristic Viennese greeting. Maybe next week I’ll say Servus!
Today was a day of hardened and shameless tourism. I began by replenishing my wine supply. I got more of the Gruner Vertliner and some more of a Burgenland red I hadn’t mentioned before that is likewise light and fruity.  And cheap, too, for good wines. They are less than three euro each.
The next chore was to visit the U Bahn (that’s subway to you) station at Stephansplatz to get my eight day travel card. It might not save me money, but I am usually willing to pay for convenience.
I walked up to a tram stop and got on a tram. I like riding trams. They are generally slow, and one can see a lot. We rode along the Inner Ring for a while where all the incredibly grand and monumental buildings are. Vienna is encircled by various ring roads, which I believe mark old lines of defense, but my tram soon turned off and climbed up into “real people” territory. It’s enjoyable seeing this as well.
I took the tram back to Theresa Maria Platz where the Art Museum sits. Yes.  More art, and what an incredible collection it is. The building alone is worth the price of admission. I have been in grand places, but this joint takes the marble veneered cake. I have never seen so much marble of so many varieties in my life. Oh yeah painted ceilings or ones with gilt coffering. You can find both.
There are paintings, too. Lots and lots of them, many of them wonderful.
Even I did not look at everything. I go into a room and scan and pick out what I want to look at more closely. Teaching Art History does make a difference. I recognize a lot of works, of course, and also characteristic styles and subject matter. I saw some old friends and made some new ones. I won’t make a list. Nearly all the major artists are represented and a lot of important works are here. I really really enjoyed the Bruegels. I did not realize that Hunters in the Snow, which I love teaching is part of a “seasons” series. I got to see some of the others. They have a remarkable collection of Giorgiones. And I must mention Vermeer’s Allegory of Painting. His works are usually quite small, but this one is pretty big and exquisite like all of his work.
By the time I had finished, it was hot and the sun was strong. After some gelato, it was time for another tram ride out to the Prater. The Prater is a pleasure ground on the outskirts of town. I took the tram to the forest part and enjoyed a cool walk under the trees.
Then I came upon the Liliputbahn. Oh oh! I am a total sucker for these little trains. I bought a combined ticket and hopped aboard. We chugged through the trees for a while, but the destination was the more famous part of the Prater--the amusement park. The rides reminded me of the old Pacific Ocean Park in Santa Monica. But the big tourist magnet of the Prater is its famous Reiserad or Journey Wheel. My combined ticket would get me a ride. Whee! The wheel is huge and rises slowly, and the views over the city and of the encircling hills are marvelous.
When we came down, I strolled over to the U Bahn Station and hopped a train for Stephansplatz and here we are.
Auf Wiedersehen!

2 comments:

  1. Does the Viennese accent remove the r from Gruss? (They said yo for ya, as I recall, and ih waussnet for ich weiss nicht.)

    Mariahilferstrasse had cool shops, at least back in the day.

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  2. You are right about the accent. My guidebook mentioned the greeting, but it still took me days to realize that's what they were saying. Morgan sounded like Mogen to me as well.
    I may go lick the windows on Mariahilferstrasse today.
    Thunderstorm last night. I loved the hard rain but they don't need it here. Wish I could send it your way.

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