Friday, July 3, 2009

An Excursion


Gruss Gott!
Having done the city pretty well, it was time for me to branch out. I planned what I thought was an easy day trip to Krems. According to the guidebook one goes to the station hops on one of the frequent trains and hour later. . . Ok not.
But I did get to see more of the lovely Austrian countryside than I expected.
Viennese public transport runs largely on the honor system. One is supposed to have a validated ticket or pass, but there is no “gate” to pass through, and no one is looking. Ticket inspectors appear on occasion, I understand, but apparently the Viennese do believe in their honor, because the system works just fine.
So I took the U Bahn with my validated ticket and strolled over to the train station. I got my ticket and the young lady kindly printed out a timetable for me without which--and the kindness of Austrian strangers--I would have been lost indeed.
They are working on the tracks or something because there is no such thing anymore as a direct train to Krems. What I had to do was ride the train, get off and take the bus, and then get on another train. Fortunately the Austrians to whom I expressed some bewilderment were willing to direct me.
There is nothing much in Krems. It’s just a pretty, old town whose Medieval street plan and some of the buildings has largely been preserved. What is not Medieval is seventeenth and eighteenth century. So I strolled around exploring the narrow, cobbled streets and enjoyed a pleasant change.
Yes. I had gelato and was introduced to a New Flavor. One of the choices was called Rafaello. Hello. Raphael, whose Madonna of the Meadow I’d seen at the art museum is one of my favorites. I had to try the flavor. It was almond and coconut and utterly creamy and delicious.
On my trips, I crossed the Danube or Donau, which was wide and sorta blue. The Austrian countryside is very lush with a lot of deep green. On the flatlands they grew grain and sunflowers, but the hills were covered in vineyards. Beautiful--and very peaceful looking.
One amusing thing I noticed.
Along one stretch of the Donau were a series of fairy-tale cottages each with its satellite dish. I do not wish to be rude to a country in which I am guest, but the truth is Austrian TV is terrible. On one major channel they are showing Perry Mason, and people of my age will recognize that it’s the black and white version with Raymond Burr! I’d spring for satellite, too.
All this exploring has worked up an appetite. I am going to have salad and some rotisserie chicken I got at the market.
Auf Wiedersehen

8 comments:

  1. Maybe it's just because I'm hungry, but plain old European chicken just tastes better--so succulent and chickeny.
    I'm afraid I eat the skin, too, as naughty as that is. I'd eat the entire chicken if I weren't too embarased to have to admit it.

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  2. [Paul Drake to Perry Mason] "Perry...I just don't get it! How did you know it was him??"
    heh heh.
    -John Spielman

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  3. If you can, go out farther along the Donau to Stift Melk, which is chockful of medieval books. It's a monastery on a cliff, just stunning in its beauty. And a little farther down is Duernstein, where Richard the Lionheart was kept prisoner--ruined castle up above, and baroque village below. I hitch hiked out there twice, back in '71, I found it so utterly beautiful.

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  4. Both are on my list! I love Vienna, but it's like all cities. The walls of masonry and all the rest of the citiness gets to me, and I like to get out.
    The issue is how to get there in good time and one piece if the rail service is disrupted. I liked Krems, but getting there was a pain.

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  5. That I don't know--it was a pain back in the day (either that or too expensive for my fifty cents a day budget). So we hitch hiked, a method I dis-recommend!

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  6. Yep. Too middle-aged for that I'm afraid. It's a train or nothing, but I'm very keen and will manage somehow.

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  7. Maybe if they have Perry Mason, they'll have Get Smart...that's worth some laughs

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  8. You never know! I enjoyed it back in the day--not sure I'd get it auf Deutsch. I appreciate your comments, Marla.

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