Friday, July 10, 2009

Climbing to a Castle



Gruss Gott!
I’m posting a bit late because I got home late. I took a trip out to Durnstein today. It’s a pretty little town and a bit of a tourist trap, but it does have Historical Significance.
Let us cast our mind back to the era of the Crusades. The leader of the Crusade was Richard I (Lionheart) of England and a lot of French real estate as well. He spoke slightingly of the military prowess of the Duke of Austria Leopold V. So what? Richard was returning after a predictably futile stint in the Holy Land. He was in disguise because he and his folks were crossing the territory of the Duke of Austria who was known to be hostile to him. Well with one thing and another the Duke’s henchmen discovered the real identity of the foreign “merchant,” arrested Richard and imprisoned him in Castle Durnstein.
And if I had had anyone that I wanted to stash away back in the Twelfth Century I would have welcomed the opportunity to use Durnstein as a prison. It's situated on a highly-defensible crag overlooking the Donau. Leopold did not intend to harm Richard. He demanded a large ransom. There’s a lovely story that Richard’s minstrel Blondel traveled all over Europe singing the chansons that Richard himself had composed and finally got an answer when Richard sang back to him from the barred windows of Castle Durnstein. I think we can put this one on the shelf with Robin Hood.
I got there, but it was---interesting. What I found out later from two Canadian women I ran into was that a rock and landslide blocked the rail line from Krems to Durnstein.
So there I was riding along and feeling smug because I finally got smart. I have a computer. Why not look up trains on the Austrian Railway site? I could actually find out when they left, so I wouldn't have to show up at the station on the off chance.
Then the conductor took my ticket. He appeared to become angry. What now? He did not speak English, but I gathered there was No Train to Durnstein. Eh? The website said so. I’d been sold a ticket. I asked if there was a bus. He complained some more but finally admitted there was a bus.
After a bus ride we arrived. I decided to climb up to the ruined castle first. Steep? Well probably it wouldn’t bother Alberto Contador, but I huffed and puffed my way to the top. The views were worth it. This region is called the Wachau. It’s just gorgeous with the Donau curving around the hills green with vineyards and forests. Going up was hard. Coming down was scary. I do not recommend climbing up there if things are wet.
Then I went and licked the windows of the touristy shops. Their big product is liquors, and I am sure they are nice, but I know they don’t agree with me.
Back to Vienna--a bit of a long and tiresome ride with many transfers. But here I am home at last.
Servus!

2 comments:

  1. I am so glad you saw it. Did you go into the church? It's one of the most perfect late mannerist, early baroque churches I ever saw--right down to the glass case containing the rotting corpse of a famous holy bishop. Talk about atmosphere!

    ReplyDelete
  2. I did not see the church having read it was another ott Rococo putti fest. Seems I missed something. But I am so glad I got to see the view from the castle!

    ReplyDelete