Arrivederci, Roma.

It's not goodbye, but see you later, because I do intend to return.
Ciao!
It has been an intense three weeks, and I am tired.  I will leave tomorrow morning--sadly.  I went shopping today, and sniffed a lot of soap.  Nice, but not good blog material.
Rome has been a challenging city for me.  It's not the language barrier.  That hardly exists.  A lot of people speak English, and they have a helpful attitude.  I can put my finger on two things that made Rome an interesting and worthwhile challenge.  First, there is So Much.  Do you want history, art, food, drink?  It's all on offer in overwhelming abundance.  The city has an energy to it--a vigor.  Don't think laid back Italians.  I didn't see any.
I was fortunate to be able to stay, and I got to see most of what I wanted and some things I didn't know I wanted to see.  What I missed out on were sites that had to be booked in advance.  I just couldn't get myself together to schedule the visits.  Next time.
The other thing is transportation.  Other European Capitals have extensive metros or trams.  The visitor can easily get where she wants to go or very nearby. Rome has two lines and is working on a third.  The issue is that every time a hole is dug in Rome, the likelihood is that some potentially valuable hunk of antiquity will be turned up.  And the busses are confusing and really not made for tourists although they can be useful.  I made a habit of trying to figure out the nearest metro to what I wanted to see and then I'd plot a route.  I got a lot of exercise that way.
I also got to follow my Mediterranean Diet otherwise known as stuffing down mountains of pasta and pizza and using olive oil and parmesan with abandon.
Didn't you get tired of pasta, Pil?  You ate so much of it.
Nope.  I don't get tired of ruins either.
And the indulgence of my daily aperitivi.  What a lovely custom, but since I am not nearly as active at home as I am on trips, I won't follow it often.  But I had lush olives, savory prosciutto on crostini, creamy cheese, and Prosecco every day.  I drink it at home, but--ha ha--NOT everyday.  Also in Italy what I found in the stores is "extra dry," which is slightly sweeter than the brut commonly found in the United States.  Because Americans have theirs with dinner and the sweeter wine makes a better aperitivo?  I don't know.
I went to the big supermarket this morning and got some things to bring home, so I can continue eating Italian.  I got some tried borlotti beans and some farro, which is a traditional kind of grain that is enjoying a revival.  I also got a package of very tiny farfelle (known as bowties in the U.S.) which are just so cute. The teensy pasta is for soup.  I'll make good use of it.
Let's talk about lipstick.
Kinda random, Pil.
Well, I couldn't help notice that most Italian women were following the matte lipstick trend.  Now because of my age, I don't think it's for me, and anyway it's a hard look to pull off for anyone.  I have seen it look very pretty even on older women.  The key seems to be avoiding bright or dark shades and going with something soft and subtle, but avoiding chalkiness.  Chalky lips look like the Zombie Apocalypse.
I have gotten a lot of traffic on the blog for this trip.  Muchas gracias to the readers in Peru and Chile.  I don't think I have had readers from South America before.  But I appreciate everyone who takes the trouble to read, and I hope you are feeling inspired.  Maybe relax with your friends and family with an aperitivo?
And for our ultimo cena in Italy for now--pasta!  It's a huge bowl of angel hair dressed with garlic, olive oil and parmesan accompanied with the last of the Orvieto.  Divine!

Grazi, Amici!

Aqueducts! And a Sweltering Walk in an Archeological Park

Ciao!
It was a relief to get home and out of the heat.  I have had two glasses of water, and now I am ready to enjoy my aperitivo and talk to you.
While doing some research this morning I happened upon information on the Park of the Aqueduct.  Although this is not on the normal tourist radar it is easily accessible by metro and even on my own Line A.  I've seen plenty of ruins--but the remains of an aqueduct?  Well, it sounded good to me.
Having consulted google maps, I set off and alighted at the proper stop.  Now my instincts were correct, and I set off in the right direction.  But google maps, as sometimes happens, screwed up.  I was given to understand that the park was two minutes walk away and would be right there in front of me.  When this did not occur, I turned around and tried other directions.  Nada.  Although I noticed that a lot of businesses were open out there in the suburbs.  I went back to the metro stop hoping for a a sign or map or something.  I did find a map, so I set out again.  I was about to give up when I spotted--an aqueduct!  Yay!  And it's amazing to find so much open space in Rome.  The park is quite large with a lot of paths, and today I shared it with bikers, picnickers, and joggers as well as folks walking their dogs.  I was able to get pretty close to one of the sections of aqueduct, so that was cool. The Romans were first rate engineers, and their water delivery system still amazes.  They brought water down from higher elevations--usually a lake at a steady downward gradient, and if the stream had to go through a mountain or cross a valley or river, the Romans would excavate and also build the spectacular arcaded platforms to carry water.  Some of the aqueducts--although much restored and repaired--are still in use!
Then I took the metro back a few stops to explore another archeological park, the Caffarella.  This time I found it easily, but also by this time the afternoon had turned very hot and humid.  Once again this is a huge open space nearish the city center and is part of the Via Appia Antica complex.  The old Via Latina runs alongside it, and there are many ruins, but they are spread out.  I came upon only one.  There are lakes, too, but I didn't get that far.  Once again this green space is used and appreciated by the Roman public.  There were a fair number of people there, but as far as I could tell, I was the only foreign tourist.  A lot of paths run here and there.  A fence is supposed to keep people out of unsafe places, but the Romans have torn holes in it.  I did not venture through them although I might have done for the sake of a tasty ruin.
I got to see a couple of nice "real people" neighborhoods in Rome and see weekend life going on as well as experiencing some history, so it was a pleasant, balanced day.
I have left over gnocchi I need to use up, so even though it's not Thursday that's what I'm having--with pesto--so good!  And of course extra parmesan.  Shall we have a bite of a tiny, tender potato dumpling enriched with pesto sauce and parm?  It's fast, easy, and one of my favorite dishes I've had here.  And let's not forget a sip of chilled Orvieto Classico.  I think it's my favorite of the local wines I've tried, and I'm pretty sure I've seen it in the USA should you decide to test my taste.

Forum of Trajan and Galleria Colonna

Ciao,
I didn't have firm plans for today except I knew it would be hot and I would want apericena.  I had an idea of where I wanted to go in the city, and some about two and a half weeks, I think I am finally getting to know the place and feel more comfortable and confident.  Anyway the sites I saw provided more than I expected and so were a extra pleasure
I got out at Metro Barbarini having plotted my route.  I made my way toward Trevi Fountain--which truly is magnificent, but I don't get why tourists think they need to make a special effort to get there.  The piazza was packed, and about half the crowd was touts.
My desired street, or so my map claimed ran right out of the piazza.  I looked. I tried every single outlook.  Nope.  Then I decided to pretend that one likely looking street of a different name was the one I wanted.  Experience in many European cities has taught me that streets can change names often several times.  I walked.  Nope.  Walked some more.  Still no.  Then the street opened up into a piazza that was labeled with the name I wanted and the street was called that from then on.  I passed the Galleria Colonna.  I noted the location for later and went on.  I was looking for a Roman site, but I could not find it.  Feeling frustrated, I decided to visit the Forum of Trajan, which was right there in front of me.  Good choice, Pil.
I was annoyed at the high price of admission, but in fact the site is much larger than I realized, and the exhibits are well displayed and marked.  I did not realize it but the inside part of the museum where the visitor begins is the top story of Trajan's famous hemicycle.  The route takes one down floor by floor until one reaches the level of the forum itself.  There's nothing especially distinguished about the fragments of statuary (except for some panels from the Column of Trajan, which are incredible) and inscriptions on display, but there are a lot of videos and models, so I ended up with a good idea of what the place had been like.  Roman Emperors made a point of investing in public places for their citizens, and the Forum offered a lot of amenities but mostly was an administrative center.  I spent a couple of hours there.
Then I went back to the Galleria Colonna.  My guidebook gave me to understand that while the offerings were good, there wasn't that much to see.  My guidebook was wrong.  While not as extensive as some other palazzos I have visited, the Galleria Colonna is exceedingly richly decorated.  The ceiling and wall frescos are magnificent--surely the equal of those I saw at Villa d'Este, and there is a nice collection of Renaissance and Baroque Art.  The gem of the collection is acknowledged to be Annibale Carracci's The Bean Eater.  It is an uncharacteristic work of a peasant eating beans, but its rough style is so direct and vivid.  His other work is mostly gods and goddesses and fancy frescoes.
I realized I was out of money, but I remembered my bank had a branch nearby.  It was one of those ones where the atms are inside, but you can insert your bank card to get it.  This worked for me!
Then feeling pretty cocky, I got on a bus.  Ha ha.  I went to Termini again because there is a branch of the food emporium EatItaly nearby.  I was just scouting.  I didn't get anything, but there is some nice stuff there, and you could also order food and drink to consume on their pleasant terrace.
Some of my apericena is left over pizza.  It's still great even washed down with Prosecco this time.

Tivoli: Villa d'Este

Ciao!
Three words for the Villa d'Este--Oh. My. God.
It is possible to visit both Hadrian's Villa and the Villa d'Este in Tivoli in one go, and in my younger days I would have, and tours are offered from Rome that cover both sites.  Maybe you don't share my taste for ruins, but Tivoli is a great day trip and the Villa d'Este easy to visit (no shuttle busses are involved) and well worth seeing.
Having obtained my bus tickets and metroed out to Ponte Mammalo, I boarded the bus with much more confidence.  I knew where to get off and where to get the bus back. I knew where Tourist Information was should I need any.  I didn't.  The Villa is well sign posted and about five minutes walk from the bus stop.  They are doing some restoration work, I guess, because the entrance was awfully discreet for such a well known site.
The place used to be a monastery then a cardinal got a hold of it and turned it into a summer retreat.  Eventually the place was acquired and embellished by another cardinal of the Este Family of Ferrara.  This bunch is good at luxurious buildings.  The palazzo part seems nicely liveable. There were no period rooms, but the ceilings and walls are richly and beautifully frescoed in Renaissance Fashion, so a lot of allegories and classical references.
The Real Deal are the gardens!  They slope down the hill in a series of terraces.  The gardens are in the Italian Style so they are rather formal and short on flowers, but oh my. The Fountains!  These are the most spectacular fountains I have ever seen--and yes, I have been to Versailles.  A fountain sprouts on nearly every corner of every path.  The garden is adorned with statues and grottos as well.  It was a very refreshing experience on a hot, humid day.
I had enough time and energy left to walk around Tivoli's historic center.  Remember Trastevere?  Well, Tivoli is the same.  It's a delightful place to wander with narrow, cobbled, pedestrianized streets and also very very touristy. On the other hand plenty of locals were around walking and greeting their friends and chatting, so it seemed like a real life place, too.
I had a smooth trip back and stopped at Cipro Metro for pizza, which I am now enjoying with beer.  I tried a supplizi which is the Roman version of aranicini from Sicily.  One makes risotto and then rice balls stuffed with something tasty and then deep fries them.  One is just a bit smaller than my fist, but then I have small hands.  Very good!
One of the cooks brought out a fresh Margharita as I was ordering, so I couldn't resist that, but I got a different kind that has faba beans (I guess) and some very salty bacon-like substance.  It's divine.  Likewise the Margherita.  I got a different kind of beer this time, and I like it lots better than the one I had last time.  It's the perfect way to spend a late Friday afternoon.
I want to be a cardinal.  I look great in red and deserve to be addressed as "Your Eminence."  I would do really well living in a luxury villa with fabulous gardens. Maybe Pope Francis will waive the current gender requirement, but the fact that I'm a Protestant is not going to be got over is it.  Bummer.  I'll eat more pizza to cheer myself up.

Wandering Around Trastavere

Ciao
My wanderings were anchored by two old and venerable churches.
I began my day with a trip to the grocery store, because it's Gnocchi Thursday!
Then I wended my way to the metro station, a longish but easy walk and I took Line A to Termini and then transferred to Line B to go to Circo Massimo.  This stop provides truth in advertising as the site of the Circus Maximus is right there, but there's nothing to it so walk on as I did.
I was after Santa Sabina a beautifully preserved example of a fifth century basilica.  Other old churches have been messed about with--notably during the Catholic Reformation Baroque Period.  Santa Sabina in contrast has a purer, more austere look from the preservation of its original structure and exterior.  Having visited this church I can claim another Roman Hill--the Aventine as the church was built on the site of a Temple of Juno at its summit.
Then I strolled about in Testaccio. The area is named for the pile of broken ceramic shards discarded for generations by ancient Romans.  The pile became Rome's eighth hill, but now the ceramic has been weathered and it's covered in grass.  You can visit the original, but you'd have to take a guided tour, and frankly there are more fun things to see in Rome.
I crossed the river to Trastevere.  Everyone says come here because it is a traditional Roman neighborhood and so charming.  This is true.  I had a delightful stroll down narrow, pedestrianized streets and through pretty piazzas.  But when charming places attract tourists--well the touristification is inevitable.  Here's an example.  Immigrants sweep the sidewalks and make little piles of debris.  They expect tips for their "service."  Ignore them.  You will also find plenty of places to have a snack or meal and a lot of intriguing shops to entice you to spend your tourist dollar or euro as may be.
I fetched up at Santa Maria in Trastevere.  Its famous facade was undergoing preservation, but the church was open and is well worth a visit.  The basilica dates from the fourth century and is the oldest church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary.  They did her proud including twenty-one columns taken from the Baths of Caracalla.  However did they move them?  Don't miss the stunning Medieval mosaics in the apse.
I walked along the Tiber for quite a while.  Then I took it into my head to hop on a bus.  I know, but sometimes I like to live dangerously.  Not that dangerously because the bus I got on was clearly labeled Termini and I had a very scenic ride past a lot of places I'd already been.  I hopped off at the station and had a quick look around the shopping center there.  Don't tell but the station shopping center is better than my new local--except for that excellent grocery store.
You can have your gnocchi with any kind of sauce.  I just really really really liked it with pesto, and then a generous helping of parmesan.  It's so good!

Acqua Romana

Ciao!
Have you ever made tea with sparking water?  It's a surreal experience let me tell you.
Pil, why would you want to do that?
Because I had to if I wanted tea this morning.  The water in this whole neighborhood is off.  Not a drop comes out of any faucet for blocks around.  There's a fountain of sorts on the street in front of my hotel.  I call it a fountain; it's more of a perpetually running stream of water out of a spigot--a shock to my Southern California heart, such a waste.  Well, I thought, if the water is off in my room, I can get it out there.  Nothing doing.  That's how I guessed it was a bigger issue, and the proprietor, who is now frantically making phone calls, confirmed this.
So I have had breakfast, and the tea was fine.  I used water I had in my refrigerator, but because the water sparkled it bubbled the whole time it was heating looking boiling but not being.  When it did boil the bubbles all boiled away.  I also managed to brush my teeth.  I can put my contact lenses in, but unless the water comes back on my poor face will not be washed.
I am not going to hang around here all day though.
But you'll cope no matter what?
I'm a traveler--with a pilgrim soul, so yes, I'll cope.
Nevertheless, I was glad when I came home to see the perpetually running fountain going.  I checked in the proprietor who when I last saw her this morning looked like she didn't know whether to scream or cry.  We had a nice chat, and I was especially pleased when she praised my complexion.  I was looking a bit rosy from the heat.
It may not be illegal to come to Italy and not have gelato, but it is rude, and I never want to be one of Those Americans.  So after my day of touristing since it was hot I popped out of the metro at Ottaviano and went in search of some refreshment.  Gelato is ubiquitous in Rome, but this place has the reputation of being one of the best if not the best.  It's called Fata Morgana.  I got there at the right time because there was no line.  I had nocchiola (hazelnut.  I remember my first celestial taste of gelato in Florence was hazelnut. It's still among my favorites.) something called snow white (vanilla with raspberry jam swirls), and chestnut myrtle.  All were scrumptiously fabulous.  The place is famous for having unusual flavors.   I'll have to be more daring next time.
I went out on the metro to see St. Paul Outside the Walls--San Paolo Fuori le Mura for you Italians.  It supposedly marks the place where the Apostle Paul was martyred traditionally in the reign of Nero by beheading with a sword, a privilege he was accorded as a Roman Citizen.
I was overwhelmed.  The church is huge and awe inspiring.  The original structure dates to the time of Constantine, but the church burned and was reconstructed in the nineteenth century.  They did a great job!  Some early mosaics and a transverse arch survived.
One intriguing feature is the series of papal portraits starting with Peter.  All of the early and Medieval ones are made up, but you start to see real likenesses during the Renaissance.  The last one is Francesco, of course.  I counted. There are six more spaces available.  The story is that when they run out, the world will end.
Then I strolled down the street to the Museo Capitoline Centrale Montemartini.  A friend recommended this to me as it otherwise would not have been on my radar.  It holds the overflow from the Capitoline Museums, but you must not imagine second rate rejects.  There are some wonderful pieces here, some like those marvelous mosaics because they couldn't fit in a the smaller space.  Apart from Roman and Hellenistic, there are some Egyptian and Etruscan works as well.
I brought home some water just in case, but I'm glad we are back to normal, and I can have a shower.
The wine I am having with my tortellone is Frascati another notable white wine from Lazio.  I like the whites much better than the red I tried, and all of them I've tried are inexpensive.  Frascati was once the favorite of Queen Victoria.  Shall we have a sip and see what the fuss is about?  It's very nice and tastes something like Sauvignon Blanc.  I am assuming Her Majesty did not get her bots from the bottom shelf though.

Ostia Antica--Ancient Rome's Port

Ciao!
Let me settle into my aperitivo.  It was a good day.  I did not have to take a single bus!
Had the Archeological Park of Ancient Ostia been open yesterday, I would have gone.  It's much easier to get to than Hadrian's Villa.  The ruins aren't as magnificent, but there's a whole city to explore.
Do you not get tired of ruins, Pil?
No.  No, I don't.
I began with a trip to my local grocery coming back with some aperitivo basics like olives and proscicutto.  I have to eat my fill of cured meat here, since I don't eat it at home or not more than once or twice a year.
Then I and my metro pass set out.  I had a longish ride out to Piramide, but not as long as yesterday. The train station of Porta San Paulo is right there, and I did not even have to reinsert my pass.  I just got on the train.  It's about a half hour ride to Ostia Antica--that's the name of the stop and not a very interesting or scenic one.  I got off and followed the crowd into the underpass, and we emerged.  I saw I sign in Italian with directions on how to get to the park and off I went. It was very basic Italian.  I'm no linguist.  I just happen to understand the words for footbridge.
My strategy for enjoying historical sites and museums is to get as far away from school and tour groups as possible.  I love my own students.  I have no use for other people's.  Fortunately although Ostia Antica is justly popular, it's also large.  I made my way down the long length of Roman pavement of the Decumanus.  Rome itself grew organically and was rather haphazard, but when the Romans founded a town, they planned it out carefully in a grid.  The two main streets were the Decumanus and the Cardo that met at right angles. Then the land was divided into blocks, which can be clearly seen at Ostia.
I worked my way back enjoying some peace and quiet as well as the buildings and occasional mosaic.  I liked it because I got a sense of everyday life in a Roman city and how people lived and what public amenities they enjoyed and what civic institutions governed them.
If you are not a fan of ruins and you come to Rome, the Forum and the Palatine will do, but if you are interested in Roman urban planning and life, then it is worth taking the easy trip to Ostia Antica.  By the way the name of the town means "mouth" as it was the mouth of the Tiber River.  Ostia used to be right on the coast of the Mediterranean, but two thousand years have taken their toll and it is a few miles inland. I climbed several structures--the ones we were allowed to climb--hoping for a glimpse of the Med.  I did see the new port, but I did not see the water.