Bon jour, mes amies
I have successfully transferred to my new room, which I like better than the old one, and I have even gained a view although not one overlooking the sea. When we were flying in to Nice the pilot warned of possible bad weather. This has not materialized. The sky is clear, and the temperature is pleasant.
I am so glad I chose to come here. Nice is lovely! And very much in an Italian Style, which is no surprise because until the middle of the nineteenth century, the city was part of the Kingdom of Savoy. Many of the main streets have loggias reminiscent of Bologna, and many of the buildings are painted in pastel colors with Rococo ornamentation. I am happy to report that the food is rather Italian as well.
I did a lot of walking today and am now set to enjoy my apero--which is in fact the term used here rather than aperitif.
I got moved, and then I walked down the main shopping street to the big grocery store. I bought only the bare necessities yesterday, since I knew I would be moving. I splashed out more today. I was warned that the grocery store was oddly organized, and it was certainly chaotic, but I love looking around, and could happily spend an hour or more just examining the offerings.
After bringing my takings home I went down to the Mediterranean--a mere five minutes from my aparthotel--and walked for a while along the shore. The breeze off the water was refreshing, and I felt reasonably good and ready to get to know my new city.
I set off to explore Vielle Ville. One interesting thing is that the street names and some sign posts are bilingual. I don't mean French/English. I mean French/Provencal.
Americans like me just love wandering narrow, twisty, dark streets. There's nothing like this where I come from. The old city is very touristy, and I can tell right now, that Nice will make it easy for me to spend money.
If you want tacky souvenirs, the city is willing to offer them up, but the discerning traveler need not settle for kitsch. Lavender is everywhere. Do you want soap? Herbes de Provence? They are in abundance. The Cours Saleya is part flower market and part food market. It clearly caters to tourists, but since I am one, I did not mind. I got some lavender honey for which the region is famous. I also bought some local olive oil at the market. We will be tasting these tomorrow.
That's nice, Pil. What are we tasting today, may I ask?
You certainly may ask. My apero is Niçoise olives, some nuts I brought from home, and Cremant, the French non-Champagne sparkling wine that ordinary people can actually afford. I got some creme de mure (blackberry) to go with it to make a Kir Royale, but the Cremant is just fine without it.
The main event is Pan Bagnat--bathed bread, which essentially Salade Niçoise in a bun that has been doused with olive oil. I added more olive oil when I got home. The trick is to let the oil soak into the crusty bun to soften it.
So what we have is a sandwich with tomatoes, hard boiled egg, radishes, sweet green pepper, olives (with pits, so watch out), tuna, and anchovy--doused in olive oil. It sounds good to me!
I am under the impression that the only appropriate accompaniment to Provencal food is rose. The market stalls and grocery stores are full of it. You can buy other wine, but why would you? (Ok, yes, I did buy other wine.) I have been scolded for liking rose, but it's now big all over France. The good folk of Provence have been known to toss ice cubes into their glasses when it gets hot. I don't think we in California would dare!
Are you going to eat that sandwich or just look at it?
I cut it in half, and I'll see how my appetite goes.
Your appetite is notorious in these parts, Pil.
Stand back, everyone. Having poured my rose, I'm about to take a bite.
How was it?
Mmmmm. You get that great French bread, and then the taste of olive oil. Wonderful tomato flavor! I may just have to buy some tomatoes at the market. But the magic is in the combination of all the ingredients. Rose is perfect with it. Just please note that a zillion different recipes for the true, authentic Pan Bagnat exist. I expect that they are all wonderful, so enjoy--except for the ones with cheese and meat other than fish because although I love cheese and meat other than fish it's just wrong with this.
And yet more Provencal food treats are in store. Have I mentioned that I'm happy to be here?
There may be more conventional tourist action tomorrow. Nice has some fabulous museums.
A demain
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