Thursday, March 28, 2019

A Shoreline Stroll and a Couple of Museums


Bon jour, mes amies,

I am still in the throes of jet lag, and this kir royale de mure I'm about to sip probably won't help.  Even if it doesn't it's delicious.  Kir is most commonly made with black current.  I am here to testify that blackberry (mure in French) works just as well.
There's a reason they call this region the Cote D'azure.  The Med is so very, very blue.  I had another day of brilliant weather.  It's sunny but not oppressive, and a fresh breeze comes off the water.
I began the day with another trip to the grocery store.  I needed more water and rose and took the opportunity to get more hummus ( I like it for breakfast) and some butter and eggs.
I needed a fairly easy day, but I also needed to get in some good walking.  Turning my face away from the historic center, I set off along the Promenade des Anglais.  Do you want to get an inkling of how the other .001% live?  I passed luxury boutique after luxury boutique, and then we enter the hotel zone.  I have no idea what one would pay for a sea view--plenty I imagine, but these hotels are beautiful buildings in themselves and look swank to the max.  I can't even imagine staying in one.  The most famous is the proud Negresco, which rightfully regards itself as a sight in itself and an historic monument. A couple of casinos break up the row of hotels.
My first target was the Musee des Beaux Artes, which I did eventually find.  My mistake was following the signs which took me in a large circle, but I did go through a real people neighborhood.  My problem was, once I found the museum, that the street was being torn up, and I was on the wrong side, so I had to take a longish detour to find a crossing.
I obtained a week pass for Nice's museums.  The collection is housed in the belle epoch villa of an Ukrainian Princess, who understandably preferred to spend her winters on the Riviera rather than Kiev.  The villa is lovely.  The collection is . . . (I don't want to be rude but)  . . . undistinguished.  Yeah, there are a couple of gems by Matisse and Chagal, and if you like Raoul Duffy you'd be pleased. The sculptures tend to be better than the paintings some of which--well, I don't want to be rude.
I descended the hill back to the Promenade and walked back to the Musee Massena. This building is even more spectacular than the villa.  It's a Neo Classical masterpiece with beautiful decoration.  It's also very heavy on Napoleon and his pals.  I like history, so I was entertained.
Then feeling tired and a bit footsore I made my way home.
You know what would entertain us readers?
Food and drink.
She's on to us!
Well, I've had my water.  Seriously, kids, it's important to stay hydrated.  Failure to do so will result in thirst and headaches at the least. I've enjoyed my kir, so how about some apero?
Don't be an Ugly American.  It's rude to come to France and not eat cheese.  I am having one of my favorites--Rocamador, which is not Provencal, but is widely available and very good.  I happen to like goat cheese, and this one is creamy and delicate.  It melts at room temperature, and I have spread a disc of it on toast.  Mmmmmm.  So creamy.  So rich tasting without being strong.  All that walking built up an appetite.  So this is even more divine than usual.  I'm sipping rose with it.  This works for me, but please note that I am a U.S. Citizen.  No French person would consider cheese as an appetizer.
So as to the main event for dinner. Keep in mind that as far as cuisine goes,  Southeastern France and Northwestern Italy may as well be regarded as one.  I'm having ravioli, but there's an experiment.  One bowl is dressed with pistou--the Provencal version of pesto.  The other is doused with Provencal extra virgin olive oli and seasoned with garlic and salt.
Oh boy.  I cannot say one is better than the other.  Both are wonderful, and the rose goes well with both.  Choose what you'd like.
I'll have a taste of lavender honey, a product that this region is famous for.  For wine and honey your minimal standard should be IGP (indication geographic protegee), but AOP (Appellation d'origine protegee).  Both guarantee a minimal standard of genuine ingredients and traditional manufacture.  Well, lavender everything is what the region is famous for.  Ooh boy.  This is one nice honey. The lavender flavor is not strong, but after the sweetness of the honey, there is a definite aftertaste that enriches the experience.  A winner for sure.
A demain

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