Monday, April 9, 2012

Volare parte de due


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Buon Giorno!
On the approach to Amerigo Vespucci Florence Airport I looked out the window and puzzled over the object that caught my eye.  Is that Brunelleschi’s dome?  Can it be?  As the plane flew toward Florence I realized that it was the dome, dominating not merely the city, but the whole of that part of the Arno Valley.  If I can summon the gumption, I’ll go up in it.
My trip went smoothly.  One highlight was the gleeful welcome I got at the airport.  A group of students from my school happened to be taking the same flight as I on their way to a service trip in Kenya.
My destination was the Piazza della Signoria—the heart of Florence and ground zero of the Renaissance!  What more could my pilgrim soul want, except freedom from jet lag?
I called and the charming proprietor came down to meet me.  I am living in the Palazzo--yes palazzo!--Uguccioni built in the late 1500s. You can see the building in the photo above.
My studio is quiet as I am on the fourth floor.  A peculiarity of elevators in these old buildings (it was the same in Milan) is that one enters from one side, but then exits at right angles.  The proprietor
showed me how things work and told me where the nearest grocery store was.  She also had some definite recommendations concerning gelato.
Then we discovered that the television didn’t work and that my European adapter plugs didn’t either.  Fortunately she figured out a way to charge my computer, and the electrician is coming tomorrow so I hold out hope for my phone and kindle.  On the plane to Amsterdam I read a book on pilgrimage by someone far more spiritual than I am, but it reminded me to take obstacles as an opportunity to learn and put away frustration.  Not everyone has my opportunity to travel, and I can live without gadgets—except my laptop ahem!
My Florence home is far smaller and less luxurious than the place I had in Milan, but the location is just as fabulous, and this apartment wins on points for charm.  
Looking up I see the exposed wood beam ceiling.  Underneath my feet sits a hardwood floor.  Over the kitchen is some exposed stone and a stone trough occupies one corner very handy for putting things one needs beside the bed.
The other photo shows what I can see from one of my windows.  The pointy thing is a gothic campanile and you can also see the crennellated walls and tower of the Bargello.  I do not have a view on the Piazza della Signoria, but that’s just fine as I can step out into the throng at any time.
The Piazza holds besides about a zillion tourists, copies of David and other famous Florentine monuments.  Across the way is the Uffizi.  To one side stands the Palazzo Vecchio, once the seat of the Florentine Republic.
I went out and accomplished a couple of constructive things.  First stop was the Uffizi, but not to visit.  I had to find the Welcome Desk and buy my Amici degli Uffizi card, which will give me free entrance to some of the major museums in Florence—and more importantly—allow me to skip the loooong lines!  So this item may not save money, but it definitely will save time.  When I walked by the Uffizi I overheard one of the guards saying the reservations for that day were sold out, and the line to get in for those who just showed up was over two hours long.  Be warned.  This is typical for spring and summer.
I got a few groceries—just to tide me over, so nothing special.  Then I went for a walk.  I strolled by the Arno and paid my respects to the Ponte Vecchio and walked up to the Duomo
Just walking around the city is an art experience in itself.  In fact guidebooks will urge the traveler to see the city as a living entity and not just a “Renaissance theme park.” But the history and art are everywhere, and so are the tourists.
So I just wandered trying to sort myself and the city out.  It’s quite easy to get around.  Unless one wants to leave the city, no reason exists to take a bus.  The historic center is fairly small and nicely flat.  A gelarteria occupies every corner.  I went to Perche No? Why not?  No reason why not!  The flavors of the day—and yes they were divine—were nocciola (hazelnut is still my favorite), chocolate, mousse, and something called zampone, a vaguely fruity flavor and very good, too, whatever it was.
Then I came home and ate.  Now I feel myself succumbing to the jet lag.
Ciao

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