Monday, July 5, 2010

Staying Local

A proper good morning to you.
Today I decided to stay local. Since I am in Holborn, my local includes a lot of Hot Stuff, but if art and history make you sick, skim until you find food.
I have gotten into my London routine. When I awake I refold the bed up into a sofa and turn on the BBC Breakfast News. The Brits are very careful to give weather reports, and I have learned to understand Celsius. I make my tea—Queen Anne blend from Fortnum and Mason this morning and prepare my simple breakfast. I have whole grain bread, which is very good and some Moroccan style, i.e. spicy hummous. After breakfast I do the dishes, dress and take out the trash. I tidy up and put stuff away. I live in an apartment after all, not a hotel room although staff do come in and clean once a week. My place is pretty spacious, larger than the one I had in Paris and even Vienna. I have proper tea pot, too.
This morning I went out to get cash and brought some groceries home and then off for much art and history and all within walking distance. The idea was not to take the tube at all today in part because I have not been licking enough windows. I walked toward the river on Kingsway, a boulevard that reminded me of Paris because of the wide sidewalks and leafy chestnut trees. I went around Aldwych stopping on the way to get some stamps and then walked down to the Embankment. The target was the Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House, so while I waited for it to open I marveled at the river view. To the south lies the London Eye, and yes I will go for a “flight.” Further to the east see the shining dome of St. Pauls and the glittering cone of the St. Mary Axe Building fondly known as the Gerkin. If you see it you’ll instantly realize why, but it is a beautiful building, thank goodness, because a lot of modern architecture in London would be more appropriate to Mordor. Looking to the west you can just see the top of the Parliament, Westminister Abbey and the bell tower with Big Ben.
On Mondays the Courtauld Galley is free most of the day. Now I would gladly pay to see the treasures within, but I took the free entry and spent my pounds on cheese. It is a fairly small collection, but if you like Impressionism or Post Impressionism, you must not miss it. The most famous work they hold is Manet’s Bar at the Folies Bergere. I see it as a masterfully painted still life in beautifully rendered light. The bar maid seems just another object. I also enjoyed the Fauves and some brilliant Late Medieval altarpieces.
Then up the hill to Covent Garden and the London Transport Museum. Sorry no intellectual content this time, but I find it amusing to wander around the old trains, trams, and buses. This one is great for kids as well as immature adults like--yeah.
Well, since I was in Covent Garden anyway, I licked windows at the shops and admired the wares at the craft and antiques markets. I had to visit Neal Yard’s Dairy again and came away with some rich cheddar from Somerset the home of cheddar. I also got some gooey, rich blue cheese. And then I went for gelato. The flavors for today were Amarena (cherry and vanilla) and Venezuelan Chocolate. Both were divine but how can I neglect the other chocolates on offer? I’ll have to go back. It would be rude not to.
After dumping off my purchases I strolled up Southampton Row to Bloomsbury Square and Great Russell Street for the British Museum.
What a place! It’s been remodeled since I was there last, and I like the new inner courtyard. Like the V and A it’s free although they ask for donations, and it's best done in stages. Today I did Egypt, Assyria, and Greece. Highlights for me included the bas relief of the Lion Hunt. I got to pay my respects to the “Dying Lioness,” which I teach, but I also marveled at the whole frieze featuring many leonine corpses and one fighting back by biting a chariot wheel. I admired some lovely Cycladic figurines and Orientalizing vases that I also teach. Of course I had to visit the Elgin Marbles. Really. They should be returned to Greece. The rationale for taking them and keeping them was to preserve them safely. Ok. Welcome to the European Union. Greece poured major euros into restoring the Parthenon. The sculptures should be replaced where they belong.
Home to the Tour de France and an appetizer of olives. I got a wrap from my favorite London fast food: Pret a manger, and to finish I’ll have some of my cheese.
Cherrio!

2 comments:

  1. Oh good, some new targets for some Google earth stalkage!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Love that kind of stalkage--that's why I leave the trail.

    ReplyDelete