Friday, June 26, 2009

An Introduction to Vienna and Its Delights



I don’t promise to eat pastry everyday. After all Vienna also has some fabulous gelato, and one of these days might be hot. But today was cool and overcast--good exploring weather.
The heavy-duty touristing will start once I start getting over the jet lag. I have learned to give myself easy days to begin with. The first time I came to Europe I was so excited I scheduled something I had desperately desired to see the first day. Mistake. I couldn’t enjoy it. So today started with hunting and gathering. Yes. I am talking about food and drink.
Last night I fell asleep to saturation coverage of Farrah Fawcett. I woke up this morning to saturation coverage of Michael Jackson. What I wanted--and no disrespect meant to the late icons--and didn’t get was weather news.
Breakfast was meager. I’d saved a tuna sandwich from the flight from Zurich and successfully made tea in the coffee maker. After sorting some things out with the management I was ready to go.
For those of you who like to follow on Google Maps the first thing to do is find Stephensdom. Last night I walked up Rotenturmstrasse from Moritzplaz to the cathedral. I crossed in front of the church and then turned right on Singerstrasse and proceeded about 300m or a quarter of a mile to my apartment building.
My building is very modern. My apartment is on the fourth floor with a view of a nineteenth century Baroque revival building, ornately carved, but in Vienna such sights are to be found on every block.
You will not starve in Vienna. In the central city it seems every other shop has pastries, chocolate, is a café, or some kind of restaurant. In the middle of the streets Wursthauses abound. I may try one tomorrow. My first stop was the Billa supermarket down the street for some basic supplies. After dropping these off at home, I went back to Stephensplatz and strolled around.
You will not have a hard time getting around in Vienna either. Quite a bit of the central city is pedestrianized, a civilized practice I wish Los Angeles would adopt. I walked up Kartnerstrasse, leaving a trail of drool along the sidewalk as I passed the pastry and confectionary shops. Vienna is full of art treasures. I would count the cakes and marzipan among them. My goal was the tourist office where I got a map and looked at brochures. Then more strolling and looking.
Baroque churches, monuments, statues and fountains were around every corner. One of the places I strolled is called Graben. The word means ditch and it used to be part of the city’s defenses. Now it’s a major shopping area. I had a purpose.
There’s a gourmet food store called Meinl am Graben. They have cheese there. Uh uh. You know where I’m going. The kind lady at the cheese counter let me try some Austrian goat cheese, which is tangy and some Austrian sheep cheese, which is smoky. I also got some crackers to go with them. I am incorrigibly American! And some sweet, fragrant red currents.
To go with dinner I got wine at the supermarket following my five euro rule. Five euro is the most I’ll pay, and it works out. I’ve never had a bad bottle of wine. Gruner Veltiner makes Austria’s “green’ wine, slightly bubbly, slightly sweet and fruity.
I know what you are waiting for. The pastry. Well, why not start at the top? I went to the Sacher Shop and walked out with a piece of Sachertorte. You can also have it in the hotel café with some coffee for a more authentic experience, but I saved mine to have with some green tea at home. Oh. My. MMM. Boy! Rich chocolate sponge layered with chocolate, and if that’s not enough it’s in a rich, thick, I think I’m going to die it’s so good, chocolate shell.
And that’s a day in Vienna! Wiedersehen!

7 comments:

  1. I was 12 when I was last in Vienna, but boy, do I remember the pastries...yum...I can taste it, nice description!

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  2. Pastry is a major art form here. I am in the midst of IN-DEPTH RESEARCH. Stay tuned and thanks for commenting. I wasn't sure anyone was reading.

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  3. You are very, very near Zwolfapostlekeller. Please go and have a drink for me!

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  4. I'll cruise by sometime. Do you have any suggestions as to what I should try?
    And here's another question. Now that I have a blog name, can I post to your blog under it? R might guess anyway.

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  5. I doubt the comments get read by R--even my content, just scanning for stuff to get offended at. My guess is you'd be safe, considering how many user names post.

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  6. So how to? If you get a chance email me.

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