Bom dia,
I got sufficient sleep, but my poor old hand is swole up bad. I can use it, but there's pain. Here is the gruesome view.
I went up the street to the pharmacy, where I found help. The nice young lady cleaned off my hand and massaged pain cream on my bruises. Then she applied an ace bandage. I have taken some ibuprophen and already feel a bit better.
I have food and tea and a supply of Asian Dramas to watch on my computer, so I'm going to take the opportunity to rest and recover.
Adeus
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Bom dia,
The power went off again. It's on now, but when I came home it was dark, the elevator didn't work, and tripped and fell hard on the stairs. My left wrist is sprained--much hurt, but the housekeeper brought me some ice, which helps. I'll visit the pharmacy tomorrow.
Here's a link about the catastrophic power failure. Iberian Power Failure
I did not know this until internet was restored. I thought it was local, but I am so dependent on the technology, especially when I'm abroad. I'm typing this one handed, for which I solicit your patience for any typos.
I wanted my room to be cleaned--it's by request here, but the second power failure, put paid to that. Anyway, I set off for the art museum--and I found it, too, which was good since google maps sent me in quest of seemingly non-existent streets.
I enjoyed the museum. A lot of the art is derivative as imitations of French trends, but the portraits and landscapes were worth looking at. There is also a small garden behind the palazzo, in which the collection is held.
A Nineteenth Century view of Porto
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Then the walk home, and this is where things began to go wrong, I knew the general direction to go in and what streets to look out for. I got turned around--not a rare occurrence for me, but both my map and phone proved useless. My phone sent me in a big, futile loop, and then asked me to back track for a mile.
I spotted a sign for the metro, went to the station, got a ticket from the machine, and figured out which line and direction I wanted. I already knew which stop was closest to my home. At least the trains were running, and I got home all right.
Until I fell.
Adeus
Publication of this post was delayed by an untimely power failure in my neighborhood. The power, and thus the wireless connection was off for about six and a half hours. When the lights finally came back on, I could hear cheering from the streets, but the wireless took many more hours to reconnect. I went to bed and slept.
This is the Church of the Trinity.
Bom Dia,
Instead of little sleep last night I got no sleep. I can cope, but since it's Monday and the museums are closed I decided to give myself an easy day. Also the afternoon turned hot, but I managed to get my steps in.
The men's bike race yesterday turned out to be boring--even the cycling pundits said so. The women cyclists did better, and the winner of the race was a surprise.
I went and got some more groceries, including the Vinho Verde rose that is slightly frizzante--not exactly sparkling but a bit fizzy, which makes it more refreshing on a warm afternoon. I pick rose because it's versatile.
Tourist Tip: I checked out the Time Out Food Court, which bills itself as "The World's Greatest." Oh yeah? Well, I was underwhelmed. They sure do offer authentic Portuguese cuisine, but so do the cafes you encounter on every block. You want a food court? Go to the Mercardo do Bolhao. More offerings and more fun. Probably cheaper, too.
Here is a sample of a Porto sidewalk. Tiles. Slippery when wet and not smooth when dry. The uneven surface and cobbled streets in the historic center are not advantageous to my feet.
Anyway I strolled around in no hurry stoping frequently to lick windows. No, not literally. I'm translating a French term for window shoping. There are a lot of touristy shops, and if you want tat you can find it, plus the usual T shirts. But the more characteristic Portuguese offerings are some very nice hand painted ceramics, and cork products--even cork postcards besides, hats, purses, pouches, and key holders to name a few. Of course, Portugal is famous for the ceramic tiles that decorate the exteriors and sometimes interiors of its buildings. You can buy a sample to take home. If you are a futbol fan, there are dedicated stores. One has video of Cristiano Ronaldo working out in his underwear. Ahem. Nice looking guy.
If you come to Portugal--something I would highly recommend--you will notice that most of the Port Firms have British names. One famous brand is Taylors. I'm drinking Cockburn. This is because the English developed a violent fondness for the fortified wine, to which they had access because of the long and cordial diplomatic relations between the two kingdoms. For example, Portugal was the English Army's base in the successful Peninsular Campaign against Napoleon.
Pil simply cannot stop with the history can she?
What's your point? Have I mentioned my reverence for Caterina de Braganza recently? She introduced TEA to England. Catherine, as she was known in England was married to Charles II. He liked her, but he also liked a LOT of other women and had children by them. Unfortunately Catherine remained childless. This had historical implications.
Adeus
Bom Dia
See the Douro River? This will be a somewhat slow tourist day. For one thing after nights of solid sleep, I got only a few hours last night. Delayed jet lag?
But I wanted to go out and at least get my steps in, so I made my way down hill to the Ribera. The problem with going down hill on the way out, is that one has to go up hill on the way back. I have been very fortunate in the weather. It's a bit chilly in the morning, but afternoons are warm (not too warm) and sunny, so I had a very pleasant stroll all the way down to the Douro River. There are a lot of interesting architecture. I can't photograph all the lovely buildings, so you're going to have to visit yourself.
The photo of this square includes a shot of the Church of the Misericorde, which one can visit via the attached museum.
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This little park is dedicated to Dom Henrique, whom I know as Henry the Navigator. You see him from the back because if I took a picture of the front of the statue it would be washed out by the bright sunshine.
I bring almonds from home, and as I have mentioned. These make the perfect apero with Tawney Port. I buy the semi cheap kind, but if you want to spend a LOT of money, there are bottles right up your alley.
The bike race is a one-day Monument in Belgium and is one of the oldest bike races in the world. I won't bore you with the ins and outs, since I have friends with whom I can dissect every detail. But I would like to mention that one contemporary team honored a long defunct team--from the USA!- -sponsored by 7-Eleven, and its sponsorship may be revived. It's a Norwegian Team wearing the red and green of 7-Eleven, and they made a cute video, too, featuring both the men's and women's teams.
So I'll sip my sips and rest my feet and enjoy the race.
Adeus.
Bom Dia,
We start the day off with Adventures in European Plumbing. I needed to wash my hair, so I tried adjusting the shower head to make that easier. It didn't, but I couldn't get it to go back to "normal." Instead water jetted out from places I didn't expect. Oh. That's what those little holes in the wall are. Not a design. I get it now. I played around with the knobs and got to where I needed to be, and my hair got washed.
Next I recycled some glass and plastic bottles and went off to a big supermarket I discovered on my jaunts. Here's the deal. I like my digs. For one thing they are very quiet, but there's no kitchenette. I have a small fridge and a microwave, plus an electric kettle and plates and cutlery. So I was delighted to find a pack of hard boiled and shelled eggs. I also got some food I could microwave, plus water and wine.
Then it was time to set off. As I have mentioned before Porto is up and down, and if I don't come home in good physical condition, I will feel cheated. My target The Clerigos is up a steep hill. And then there are stairs. Oh my God. The stairs.
The big draw is the Tower because of the magnificent views over the city, but my tower climbing days are over. Also on offer is some kind of light show that appears to promise a spiritual experience. I passed on that, too. I wanted to see the chapel and the museum. I had to wait in line, but not long. Oddly enough when I stand still, my poor little foot doesn't hurt.
So a group of us were let in, and I was given instructions by the nice young man who sold me my ticket. I'll be frank. The exhibits were mostly not that interesting although I did enjoy a notable collection of Late Medieval Polychrome wood carvings. But to get from point A to point B, there were stairs and plenty of them.
I would climb up dark narrow stairways go along a passage and then would be directed down a dark narrow stairway. Over and Over and Over again. I walk just fine, but I don't have good balance, so I have to be super careful on stairs--even at home.
Except for the stairs I enjoyed the visit. I had been instructed to follow the signs for the Tower, but I actually got to the Tower entrance and had to ask (another very nice young man) how to escape. This involved--wait for it--a Lot Of Stairs. And even outside, I had to climb down Stairs. Right now I am Sick of Stairs.
But I also got to see another part of this beautiful city. And the traffic wasn't too bad. Some streets have Palermo-like traffic with angry honking. My only problem today was dodging tour groups.
Adeus
Bom Dia,
Happy Dia da Liberdade! I got some good sleep, but I was awake at midnight when the fireworks went off to celebrate the holiday honoring the over throw of the Salazar dictatorship and the reestablishment of democracy in Portugal. Congratulations to my Host Country! A lot of businesses were closed including La Mercado Bolhao. I saw some disappointed tourists waiting outside and was glad I went yesterday, so my apero was ready for me.
As promised I woke up stiff, but in this case the only way out is through. I have to keep walking.
I began my day with a trip to the ATM. Portugal as a member of the EU uses the Euro, and the exchange rate is hideous.
I wanted to visit the Cathedral. It sits on a hill in the heart of the city and is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary into Heaven and dates from the Twelfth Century. The building has a very solid and rather fortress like exterior. I have a fondness for the Romanesque possibly due to my Norman ancestry, so I appreciated the church. You have to pay to get in, and I got a combo ticket because I also wanted to visit the Bishops Palace.
The term for cathedral in Portugese is Se, and I'm going to guess it derives from the Latin word See meaning seat. For example the late Pope Francis occupied the Holy See, which refers to his being Bishop of Rome. Porto, Lisbon and other cities had bishops, too, so their cathedrals as opposed to ordinary churches are Se.
I'm glad I arrived when I did because when I exited there was a big old long line to get in. But I had a nice quiet, pretty uncrowded visit which began in the Gothic Cloisters. Then I visited the nave, which was pure Romanesque with a lot of Baroque decoration. It was quiet, and I enjoyed my walk around. Visitors can climb one of the towers. I no longer do this.
I walked across the courtyard to the Bishop's Palace. I correctly identified the style of the exterior as Baroque, and this impression was confirmed when I encountered a grand stairway up to the exhibits. It's not a lavish interior. I gathered that the Bishops of Porto enjoyed their authority but weren't interested in luxury. It's definitely worth a visit.
On the way down the hill, I felt obliged to visit the market stalls. I bought some cheese. I will share with you when I come to taste it.
Probably the most famous part of Porto is the riverside neighborhood of Ribera. I did not make it as far as the riverside--although I will this visit, but I did saunter down a pedestrianized street (and was glad to do so because often the traffic reminds me of Palermo) with many, many touristy shops. For example I came upon three gourmet chocolate stores. And there were many street musicians and other performers. One guy had a bunch of trained birds.
But I was tired then, so I climbed back up the hill to home. I need to work myself into fitness. My foot problem keep me from proper walking for weeks, but I'll build stamina. To help this process along. I had some conservas for dinner in the shape of sardines packed in olive oil with tomato sauce. It was delicious!
Adeus
Bom Dia,
I am tired, having walked a lot and gone up and down, but I enjoyed seeing Porto's beautiful historic center, and I honored my room by crossing the Ponte Luiz I. On my way home I passed the Mercado de Bolhao, and somehow a bottle of tawny port and a bottle Portuguese vinho verde rose found their way into my bag. I have become a Big Fan of the tawny port, and I am enjoying some with almonds right now.
My major goal was to find the Tourist Information Office and obtain a map. This I accomplished eventually because my carefully noted down directions were blown to bits by some major construction that led pedestrians into convoluted detours. This was not an entirely bad thing, however, since the detour led me to the famous train station San Bento, rightly regarded as one of the must see sights here because of the beautiful tile decorations. Predictably the place was packed with tourists.
The tourists! Yeah, I am one, and on rare occasions have taken a tour, but tourist groups are the bane of my existence on these trips. They are a glop of humanity some thirty or forty strong clogging the sidewalks and blocking the view.
Porto--and Portugal in general- is a popular destination and justly so. I had hoped to escape the crowds by showing up in April instead of late May. Ha ha ha ha ha.
Anyway I walked around a lot and marked places I intended to visit and enjoyed licking windows and admiring the beautiful architecture. I am Very Satisfied with my choice of destination.
After a lot of up and down I came upon The Bridge. The top layer is for us pedestrians and the trams. I gotta take a tram one day.
Pil, trams are just busses on rails.
NO! I deny this. Busses bad, trams good.
Where was I? Anyway there's plenty to see here, and I'm pleased that I could walk around so much. My foot was sore, but walking did not make it worse, so I am encouraged and looking forward to much touristing tomorrow--although I'm pretty sure I'm going to wake up stiff.
Adeus
Bom Dia,
The best aperitivo is tawny port and almonds.
I did a low key tourist day. I did get some sleep and I even took a nap after breakfast, so I'm feeling pretty decent except for that tiresome foot.
The plan was to get some groceries and do an easy tourist thing. Well, it turned out I could do both at once. I generally love European markets. There have been a couple that have been too noisy and intense for me, but I mostly love snooting around them. It's as good as a museum.
I found out that Mercado de Bolhao was just a few minutes walk from my place. And by the way, while knowing nothing about Porto when booking this place, I once again lucked into a great location. On the way to the market I found copious window licking opportunites and my very own street hosts a bakery and a shop with wine and conservas.
What are conservas, Pil?
Tinned fish is justly popular in the Iberian Peninsula and also among travelers fortunate enough to visit there. Seriously. This is a high quality and very tasty product--affordable and easy for me since the stuff is already cooked. It's a mistake to turn your nose up.
On to the mercado. The place opened in 1837 in a beautiful multi story building from the Beaux Artes period. I went downstairs and was immediately enthralled. Yeah, it's kind of touristy (doesn't bother me, since I'm a tourist) but plenty of locals were shopping there, too. It's big and pretty much anything your heart desires is to be found somewhere: flowers, fruit, vegetables, spices. Some stands were clearly aimed at tourists and offered souvenir type stuff. I strolled around in a happy haze.
Yeah, but did you buy anything, Pil?
You betcha! It would have been rude not to. I do not eat pork in the United states unless I can find some that is certified humane, so I save any pork consumption for Europe where pig farming is closely regulated, and traditional methods are respected. The Iberian Peninsula is famous for its hams. This goes back to La Reconquista Period when Christians needed to prove they weren't Jews or Muslims, hence the consumption of pork. But the pigs are special breeds that run free and feast on beech mast and other piggy treats. The woman I got my hunk o' ham from told me it was from the famous Piedra Negra or Black Foot pigs. I think we should have a bite. It smells divine. It has a mild smokey flavor--very rich but not too fatty.
I didn't stop there. I cruised by an olive oil stand and was attracted by a bottle that was not too big for my visit. The charming proprietor offered me a taste. We discussed the flavor profile I wanted and I smelled and slurped. Good! I wanted to cough. She also handed me their business card. They import to California, but we have our own oil, and when I'm home I won't buy anything else, and what with the tariffs or at least the uncertainty about them, their U.S. business may suffer.
I also attended a bakery and got a couple of rolls. I can have one with breakfast tomorrow. And I bought a bottle of Vinho Verde--the white, slightly sparkling kind, which you can find--for now--in the United States and very tasty and refreshing it is, too. The verde part doesn't literally mean green. It means young, and I have also tried the red and rose versions in Portugal. It pairs nicely with the ham, but it is really terrific with conservas. And I guess the salt cod or Bacalhau which is everywhere. I tried it. Didn't like it, but don't tell or I'll be kicked out of the country.
After that I strolled around my neighborhood. Porto is delightful!
I'm going to take care of my foot and have an early night.
Adeus.
Bom Dia!
Let me take a sip of tawny port. This is a classy joint. They provided a complementary welcome bottle, and I think I earned it.
So the plane that KLM meant to use for the flight didn't show up and didn't show up. Then it did, but it wasn't ready. Group One, including me was finally bussed out to the plane, where we saw the flight crew milling around on the tarmac. At length they were let on board. We waited for about twenty minutes, and then we boarded. I'm happy to report that no one made a fuss. I was worried because I'd booked a taxi and was concerned the driver did not know the plane would be late. I texted her, but the new announced arrival time was overly optimistic.
The flight crew once again was lovely, and I shared my seat row with some official from KLM. They passed out a meal, but instead of eating it I stashed it in my luggage and am enjoying it now. I also have something I can heat up for breakfast.
The crew was very apologetic, but we were not going to arrive any where close to on time. We landed and I limped to baggage claim. My plantar fasciitis is acting up. It won't kill me or prevent me from getting around, but it's not pleasant. By the way, I've fallen into a fashion trend. I noticed nearly every traveler wearing these reenforced shoes.
It took FOREVER for my bag to show up and then I hustled myself to the meeting point. She texted me some instructions and hoola! I got my ride into town.
Porto's old town, where I am staying (and I am paying for the privilege), is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I need to get groceries tomorrow, and I'll pick some easy tourist thing to do. My room is named after the famous Luiz I Bridge, a must cross for every visitor.
Bye for now
Good day!
And greetings from the Air France lounge at LAX to which I was welcomed because I'm flying KLM Business Class. I did my time in steerage almost always sitting over the wing, so I couldn't see anything feeling cramped and uncomfortable--and I am a small adult! But the tickets were cheap and cheerful.
Then I graduated to Premium Economy when I retired, which was a big step up in comfort, but now I have the bucks to treat myself to business class from time to time, and I am convinced I deserve it. Airport lounges are nice. There's a bar, a buffet, showers--anything a pampered traveler could want. I will be given booze on the plane and plenty of pretty fancy food, too, but I am having a soft drink and a snack of bread and cheese. When the time comes I will have about a five minute walk to the gate, where I will get priority boarding.
Und Gode Dag from Amsterdam!
I had a very nice flight and even got a few hours of sleep in the lie flat seat. There was much food and drink, starting out with the welcome glass of champagne then followed by nuts and gin and tonic, followed by lobster salad and white wine. The salad came with a nice roll and a pot of good Dutch butter--not the pathetic little foil packs that are practically frozen that one usually gets. Now that would have been dinner at home, but I also had some braised beef and vegetables and cheese and port for desert. I explained to the flight attendant that Porto was my final destination, so I had to practice. He and I had a nice chat about Portugal and what a pleasant place to visit it is. Charming chap. You will notice that all the flight attendants in Business are older, and, trust me, they know what they're doing. Not only is service efficient and friendly, the attendants make sure every passenger knows he, she, or otherwise is the most super special passenger ever. I like this!
I didn't care for the new design of the amenity kit. And the little bag is of no useful size. But I did acquire another cute little Dutch House. They are modeled after actual dwellings in Amsterdam. Here you go.
But then I had a giant hike to get to my gate for the trip to Porto, and my right foot decided to act up. Moreover, when I got to passport control, I was stuck behind two guys, who got questioned at length by the officer. One guy even had to hand over his phone. Of course, I breezed through. The officer was charming to me allaying any fears I had of hostility to U.S. Citizens.
I passed the fancy KLM Crown Lounge, but I didn't have time for a visit. Boarding is soon!
Bye for now
