A Complicated Journey

 Buon giorno,

I made great plans, and none of them worked out. Sigh. Currently I'm waiting for gate information and boarding at Florence Airport, so I did make it this far.

My packing went well. I managed to wrestle my bags down those steep, narrow stairs. There are light switches, but the light stays on only for a minute, so not much help. I went outside in good time to await my taxi. It didn't come. And it didn't come.

I called my hostess. She answered even though it was way early in the morning, and got me a taxi. I had a thrilling ride down very narrow steep streets and under archways. Fortunately it was so early there was no traffic. We got to the train station in good time.

Then I hit another snag. The train I picked was special because it was direct and fast, and I needed to enter my personal information to obtain a ticket. If my taxi had arrived in time, I would have been able to do this. As it was, no. So I had to settle for the next train, which included a transfer, and I had to navigate more stairs to get to the platform. Fortunately I found help. And then I spoke to a young woman who was taking that train. She spoke good English and agreed to help me with my bags. This was lovely, and made my life easier. She also knew the platform for Florence.

Both of my train trips featured a group of heavily armed police. I have no idea what the deal was, but they asked to see my passport. No one was interested in my train ticket.

At length we arrived in Florence and I bought a ticket and headed for the tram. It began to rain, and I had to dig out my umbrella. The tram is slow, but the airport isn't far, but I got here much later than I expected. I checked in and there was a loooooong line to go through security. So no lounge or showers for me. I didn't even have time to get my tax refund.

Part II Paris to LAX

We got on the plan and sat on the tarmac for close to an hour due to various issues. I already had a tight transfer window in Paris, and this didn't help. But a t length we took off, and they fed me--shrimp. I don't like shrimp, but I was hungry so I ate most of them, and the accompaniments were good. I drank champagne because I could.

The thing about Airport CDG it that it sprawls, and I had twenty minutes to change terminals. I had to scamoper! Down escalators, up escalators, long halls, even had to take a bus. I knew the flight had started boarding, and my only hope was that it was a big plane and boarding would take a while, so I had a chance.

And I made it--just barely and my luggage did, too, by some miracle. This flight was not Air France, but Delta One, and very nice it was, with my own little cubicle and a privacy door. The Purser came around to introduce himself, warn of of turbulence over the North Atlantic (Really? I'd be shocked if we didn't have it) and to take our dinner order. They were out of the chicken, so I had the beef.

And the champagne flowed. And there was a very nice amenity kit, plus matress pad and cosy blanket and pillow.

As an apero we were served warm nuts. Here is my starter. More shrimp. Not being as hungry I left them alone. The corn soup, salad, and roll with French butter were first rate.

You can see my reflection in the screen. I looked just awful not having washed my hair and all. I did put on the earrings I got in Florence, so I would look more like a business class flyer. I turned down desert and had port instead, which was not as good as the cheapo stuff I swilled in Porto. Then I slept.

And I slept for about five hours! Not that it did me much good. I did not feel rested. The flight was comfortable. The cabin crew were lovely and the food was good. 

Now to plan my next adventure.

Ciao for now.

A Bit of Rain for My Last Full Day in Perugia

 Buon giorno,

It's chilly and a bit rainy--giving a foretaste of what later in the year will be in Umbria. Stone walls can become bleak. I came back early because of the weather and also because I have to organize myself for an early departure tomorrow. I'm flying out of Florence. My taxi to the train station is booked, and I have done the on-line check in for Air France/Delta.  I have to leave so early because there's only one train that goes directly to Florence Santa Maria Novella Station that does not require a transfer. And readers of my blog know how these train changes don't work out. I'm trying to avoid a similar unpleasant situation.

When I get to Florence I need to take the tram to the airport. I hope I can check in early and get to the lounge. I looked it up, and they have showers there. I'd love a hot shower rather than the tepid sponge baths I've been resorting to here. I could even wash my hair. Apart from any consideration to my fellow passengers, I just feel better traveling clean. I hope it works out.

I am glad I came to Umbria, and Perugia is a wonderful base. I'm sorry I did not get to Orvieto this trip, but I'll try to see it someday. Umbria is beautiful and so far uncrowded. The countryside is enchanting, and the food and drink hearty and delicious. If you don't or can't eat pork though, maybe it's not the best destination. I'll confess that the Porchetta was one of the highlights of my trip.

Perugia involves a lot of up and down. To help out there are scale mobile (that's escalators to you non-Italians) and lifts, but you will get a good workout just walking around the historic center.

                                                    

I also want once again to mention the gracious kindness of the people of this lovely and fascinating city. Every encounter I had with the local people was warmly positive. Many went out of their way to help me out. And what is more, they seemed genuinely to enjoy helping.

So I'm hoping to run into that helpful attitude tomorrow morning. I feel very anxious about the trip. First I need to get my bags down a steep, dark, narrow staircase, and it's always worse going down than up because the weight poses a falling danger.

When I reach the train station, I'll have no problem getting the ticket, but then I'll need to go to a platform across the tracks, and that means going down stairs and up again. I have no problem being a pathetic little old lady looking for help. I just hope I find it. Getting help from kind strangers was how I made it here in the first place.

Dinner is linguine with the last of the Calabrian pesto and tuna. This is first rate and actually something I might recreate at home with American tuna rather than Italian. There's no chance of me getting real peso Genovese, but Calabrian pepper pesto is made by Barilla. I'll look for it.

Ciao for now

Gubbio: The Medieval Town

 

Buon giorno,

It's been a long day, and I'm hungry and tired, but I did enjoy my trip to Gubbio. First I had to find the bus station which is a fair step away from here, and the route I chose was not the best. For one thing it involved an endless flight of stairs down. And then google maps directed me to turn left when I should have turned right.

I knew I was way out of my way when I ended up near the minimetro stop. I asked some folks for directions, and fortunately they spoke a little English. I cannot say enough about the kindness of the people of Perugia. They seem genuinely happy to help! An older woman knew just where I needed to go. I arrived and bought my tickets and asked where to get the bus. I couldn't find the quay, so I went back and asked. The lady acted like I was an idiot because--you know what?--I was an idiot. The quay was right there behind me.

The bus soon came and we were off. One thing I learned today. While Tuscany is beautiful, Umbria is Even More Beautiful. The hills are heavily wooded with a variety of trees in their various hues of green only interrupted by vineyards and olive groves.

It's rather a long ride to Gubbio, but we arrived and I made my way to the historic center. It's a beautifully preserved Medieval town, but first my most pressing need was a toilet. I found one, and it was free, but the problem with free toilets in Italy is that they are ill maintained. There was no toilet paper. Never expect any. This is why I ALWAYS carry one of those little packs of tissue with me.

I had a lovely time just wandering around. I took an elevator up near the top of the town and walked down. It's very touristy, but not tacky and not at all crowded.

I made my way back to the bus stop, and took a photo of the unimpressive Roman Theatre on the way.

It turned out we were waiting at that wrong place, and fortunately a local corrected us. The bus shows up when it shows up, so I had to wait quite a long time, and the bus took a different route home--a a very scenic way up and down and around those Umbrian Hills. Just gorgeous.

Once in town the traffic was clogged, but we finally pulled into the station,  and I found an easier, more direct way home. Now I need to cook some linguine. I've already had my herby amaro and some almonds. My pasta will be dressed with some cacio e pepe sauce got from the store. It will be yummy!

Ciao for now

Palazzo Baldeschi al Corso and Some Shopping

 

Buon giorno,

As I had a Project Day yesterday and am planning another for tomorrow, I thought I'd give myself a comparatively easy day today. And also today was the morning of the planned blackout. I was hoping that the workers gave a generous estimate, and so it proved. The power went off later and came on earlier than they announced.  I'd taken care of all my personal needs before the power went off, as I must use the electric kettle to get warm water.

The Palazzo is fairly nearby, but it has very odd hours, so I saved it for today when it would open in the morning. Bur before it opened I got some cash and strolled around marking shops I intended to visit. and watching the merry-go-round in the Piazza.

I am happy to report that with the exception of a mother and young child, all the riders were middle aged or elderly adults having fun. It's the sort of thing I would do, too.

                                         

Then I walked down that intriguing passage pictured above.

At length the Palazzo opened and I entered. I got a handsome discount for being old and proceeded. on my visit. The young ladies in charge were very eager to help me. I think I was their only visitor at that time--because the joint is not open that much, and visitors need to plan.

Most of the Palazzo has been gutted, but on the first floor some lovely ceiling frescos survived.

The young ladies highly touted the "Special Exhibition" of contemporary artists in dialogue with the Middle Ages. I was unimpressed.

The other floors were more interesting to me. There was a reasonable collection of Renaissance and Baroque works. I enjoyed the landscapes and portraits most of all, and the same was true in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century works.

I saw a very impressive and beautiful collection of Umbrian Majolica. The colors just glowed!  I don't feel right about taking photos of these exhibits because I'm concerned about copyright.

I also came across the personal out put of an eccentric artist, who managed to convince he he was gay. Sure he had plenty of female nudes, but they didn't have the--uh--resonance of his male nudes.

This was a pleasant way to spend the morning, but I also had some shopping to do. I attended a chocolate shop a little further down the street that I found more elegant and less touristy than the ones nearer the Cathedral.

I also returned to the tiny shop selling Umbrian goodies.Let me take a sip of one of my purchases. It's an Umbrian liquer called Amaro d'Erbe. Smells sort of herby, but also like booze. It tastes very nice--not bitter at all, which is what amaro means. But I can tell from one sip that it is strong! I need to go slowly with this, and I have some left for tomorrow.

I slept pretty well, but I had an interesting nightmare. I dreamt I was at the train station about to board when I realized I hadn't packed. I had my luggage, but I'd left my belongings behind.  This won't happen in real life.

Ciao for now

Assisi: In the Steps of St. Francis

Buon giorno,

I've given up on getting hot water out of the tap. I'll just use the electric kettle some more. My hosts informed me that the power is going to be turned off tomorrow morning, so I need to make my arrangements early. 

Not waiting around for hot water, meant I got to go to Assisi. It's an easy trip from Perugia, but it is a Project, and I'm worn out. I stopped at the fancy bakery and used my voucher to get a couple of sandwiches because I'm also hungry. As I came home I spotted a lot of folks sitting outside on this pleasant afternoon enjoying their aperos.

From Assisi station it is wise to buy bus tickets from the kiosk across the street. It's a long way to the historic center and the last part is very steep. In fact the whole place is steep. I got a work out, but it was well worth it.

Francesco Bernardone was the son of a prosperous merchant who horrified family and friends by abandoning his carefree life as a rich young man about town for the life of a religious beggar. He took "Poverty" as his lady, and lived the life of an itinerant preacher supported by alms. Later he founded the Friars Minor with his followers, who dressed in coarse brown robes and lived a life of self denial and service. Francis is one of the most beloved of Roman Catholic saints (Even the late Pope took his name for his own!) (Even hard core Protestants admire Francis) because he was the most radical Christian since Jesus himself.

My first target was the grand basilica dedicated to him and where he is buried. The place is magnificent, but I couldn't help thinking it would give Francis fits if he knew. Why wasn't those resources given to the poor? he'd ask.

I'm glad I got there early. It was already crowded and services were being held, but the place was navigable. I paid my respects at Francis's tomb and sought the way to the upper basilica as the place has two stories. I can't remember how long ago it was, but Assisi suffered a catastrophic earthquake, which damaged the cathedral and crumbled the priceless frescos by Giotto and other distinguished artists depicting scenes from Francis's life.  The works have been carefully and effectively restored.

Giotto is one of my favorites. He revolutionized narrative painting with the use of accurate depictions of three dimensional space and placing figures in it and in relation to each other in a more natural, yet dramatic way.

When I walked by on my way back there was a giagantic line to get into the church. Come early, Amici.

Then I strolled through the town--uphill. Now Assisi is Very Touristy, but I also saw many signs of genuine piety and devotion.  If you want religious tat, you can find it. There are also high end religious and secular items on offer and also a lot of food. You will have no chance to starve.  And the thing about walking up hill is that when it comes time to leave one can go downhill. There are also public toilets scattered about. I used one for .50 Euro, and it was clean and well maintained. It just irritates me when I have to pay to pee.

It's a very pretty town and quite well preserved, and I think it would be fun to stay there except I prefer Perugia. I did (I hope) build up some good traveller karma by helping two women find the bus stop for the airport.

Bus after bus came. "Stazione?" "Non" The woman who was waiting at the stop with me and I sort of bonded, and I could understand her Italian. But obviously we all got home just fine.

Ciao for now

A Certain Amount of Frustration

 

Buon giorno,

This morning I found that the hot water was off again. Sigh. Now I did not have any big plans for today apart from shopping, but as much as I enjoy just Being in Italy it's kind of a waste just sitting around my apartment waiting for things to be fixed. My gracious hosts are upset on my behalf and embarrassed. I don't want to be cranky to such lovely people, but to be frank this has not been fun.

The photo is of an intriguing looking passage. When I first arrived my cab driver sent me up there, but I soon became skeptical, and a young Perugian woman who spoke excellent Englsih noticed my bewilderment and offered help.  I got my grocery shopping done. For one thing, I'd miscalculated and ran out of tea bags. Now I can still have morning tea.

Perhaps you noticed a glaring omission in the Italian food I have been eagerly devouring.

Yeah, Pil, what about formaggio, huh? It's rude to come to Italy and not eat their cheese.

You have that right, and I am remedying that issue with today's apero. I actually don't know what kind of cheese it is. It's semi soft, no rind, but it tastes a lot like taleggio. It's not sharp at all, but it has a distinct and very pleasant taste that goes well with my red wine from Assisi.  This is delightful!

Let's fast forward to dinner. It's a chilly afternoon so a hot meal will be welcome. At the grocery I found some DOP pesto Genovese. It's not even close to being Umbrian, but I really enjoyed it when I was in Genoa, so I mixed it with tuna and had it with linguine.  Here we go.

I knew when I wrestled the container open, that we had found the real deal from the sharp smell of basil. A lot of people have had pesto, and it's been very tasty, but the real thing made with Ligurian basil and olive oil is a revelation.  With tuna and pasta--in this case linguine--it's superb. But let's have a sip of some vin bianco from Orvieto. Mmm. I'm not sure Italians would approve of such cross regional contamination, but it sure does work for me.

Ciao for now

A Day Out in Spello

 

Buon giorno,

With the hot water situation sorted, I am free to take day trips. I wanted to start smallish because the other destinations I have in mind are Projects. Spello is close and compact. Sounded good.

I had a pleasant time and returned home via the porchetta stand. It was crowded, but the meat guy is efficient. Plenty of locals frequent the place. In fact one woman was urging a young American man and me to "try the vegetarian option." LOL no. I'm here for the meats. The young man got a panini that sounded really tasty to me, so maybe I'll have that next time.  This time I knew to ask for un canario, which is what I had last time and what I'm tucking into right now. Sooooo Goooood!!!!

One reason I needed to start small is that I had to figure out the public transportation. There are busses, but the best way to get to the train station is the minimetro, which are small, driverless, cars that run on rails. I bought a ten ride ticket from the machine,  One puts the ticket in a slot so the gate will open, and then one waits for the next container. It's fun to ride.

At the proper stop, it's short walk to the station. I have to say I'm glad I did not try this when I arrived, the cars are very cool, but there are stairs involved.

I got my day return ticket from the machine, carefully validated it, and just missed the train, but another one came along, and I was launched. Parts of the journey were very scenic. For example there were a lot of olives groves recognizable by the silvery leaves on well pruned trees.

I'd never heard of Spello before, but from what the internet told me it was a good destination--and so it proved.  The historic center,  or storico centrale as we Italians say, is a fair step from the station and up hill. I would not visit in wet weather. the streets are very narrow and have rough and slippery-looking footing.

It's a very pretty, neat looking town and was largely empty of tourists. I had a nice time strolling around.

I made my way back to the station and caught the next train home, but I was naughty and forgot to validate my ticket. Uh oh. But I got away with it because no one checked. I just need not to do that again. I gained confidence for the next bigger day trips, but it won't be tomorrow because I have some things to do in town.

Ciao for now

The Saga of the Hot Water Boiler

 

Buon giorno,

I did get out in the afternoon--witness the shot I took of the famous Arco Etrusco, but I woke up to cold water again. I let my hosts know. They had a technician on call, so I had to wait around for him and Francesco to come. In the meantime I amused myself with my lap top

Of course, I have no idea what was wrong with the thing, but the technician worked on it with much banging and going up and down a ladder for at least forty-five minutes with Francesco asking questions and taking photos the whole time.

It was cool and very windy when I went out. My first stop was a bankomat to replenish my cash although Northern and Central Italy are card friendly.

Then I went in search of the Arco Etrusco. Predictably I got turned around, but what's the point of coming to Europe if one isn't going to walk and walk. I did pass this fun item on a wall.

Eventually I got on track and followed the sign posts--down a steep hill thinking all the while about how I was going to have to climb up again. The way was long, and I was thinking of giving up when I came upon the arch. It's an Etruscan arch, but the Romans invented the arch, and Augustus Caesar made sure there was an inscription honoring him on the entablature. There's a street that runs through it, so I decided to take that. It was steep, but also a bit of a short cut.

There's a window in the transverse arch across the street. Does someone live there? Wouldn't it be fun to stay in such a place?

The street dumped me out near the Etruscan Well so I knew where I was. I easily found the grocery store and picked up some tasty items, plus a couple of souvenirs. Italy has teeny tiny pastas for soup that I have never seen in the United States. Is it wrong to say the pasta shapes are adorable? Anyway I'm bringing some home for me and any friend who cares to have a packet

Dinner is linguine with tuna and pesto calabrese--not very Umbrian, but pretty tasty. Anything can be a pesto as long as it's pounded. Calabrese features red bell pepper, tomatoes, and some Calabrian hot peppers. It's delightful with pasta. I got some rose from Umbria to go with it.

Ciao for now

Perugia Sotteranea or Perugia Underground

 

Buon giorno,

We are not having our usual apero today because it is October 14, a day I celebrate the Norman Conquest of England, which I imagine is a fairly unpopular thing to do among those who actually think about the matter.

After my underground tour I repaired to the fancy pastry shop to employ my gift voucher. I came away with a piece of chocolate naughtiness called a Sobbriona. The green tea in my cup will counteract the sugar and fat, I'm sure. Let's have a bite.  There's a chocolate cookie affair as the base and then two layers of chocolate goo. It's very rich. If you were here . . . well, I still wouldn't share.

The hot water was out again this morning, but my host came and fixed it, and my hostess is looking for a technician to really fix it.

I booked a spot in the English tour for Perugia Sotteranea. Now I happen to have a taste for archeology, and I've done city foundation tours underground in Naples and Lisbon, and they have been fun and informative. Our tour in Perugia takes place right under the Cathedral because that was close to the site of the Etruscan Acropolis. You can see the Cathedral in the photo above. The entrance to the underground tour is just beyond it.

This is the cortile behind the Cathedral where we gathered and began to follow our Guide.

We had to go down many flights of stairs. Now stairs are not my friends, but I wasn't the only elderly person on the tour, and there were handrails, so I was fine albeit a little slow.  Most of the tour featured the Etruscans, which is what I was there for, but we also saw a few Roman fragments.  On one part of the tour we walked on the stones of a Roman road. The Guide was obviously proud of his city and heritage, and we really needed his commentary to make sense of the stone blocks and vaults we viewed. He also had a tablet from which he could show us some historic recreations of the sites.

Here are a couple of shots where the light was sufficient for me to take a picture.

I learned that in Etruscan Perusia the chief deity was the Goddess Uni whose temple sat at the highest point of the acropolis. Unfortunately the temple and city were burned because Augustus Caesar was offended their support of Marc Antony. Uni is the Etruscan version of Juno or (if you are Greek) Hera.

The tour finished off with us sitting on stools putting virtual reality headsets on. Then we were taken on a  fascinating virtual tour of the sites we'd visited including the house of an Etruscan noble, the marketplace, and a. trip up to the Acropolis to see the Temple of Uni.

Once above ground I went to get my pastry. The shop is small but fancy, and the service is not exactly efficient, but I got what I wanted, and boy oh boy was it good!  I had to chuckle inwardly because the guy who waited on my did my takeaway order in a an elaborate package including a plastic tray, a wrapping tried with ribbon and a bag. I was all like, Dude the second I get home, I'm going to rip all your hard work apart.

Ciao for now

A Tasting of Some Local Delicacies.

 Buon giorno,

With my hot water restored, I enjoyed a hot shower and shampoo after breakfast. Then I headed out to the grocery store--a whole two minutes trek away, but it is up hill.

After I put my groceries away I set out. Eventually I want to take day trips. I have already seen most of Perugia's sights. There are a couple more I want to visit, but one of the things I particularly wanted to see, the National Archeological Museum of Umbria is closed for the next two years. Bummer.

Still walking around the historic center is delightful.  Numerous viewpoints are set up for those who enjoy panoramas. See the photo above. The light wasn't really optimal, but you get the idea.

I was in search of the minimetro. I want to take day trips, and that means going to the train station, and the minimetro is the way to do that. One gets tickets from the machine, and there are clear instructions in several languages detailing different methods of payment. Cool!

I then went to look at some famous buildings--Renaissance and Baroque, but one is not allowed inside, so I strolled around the narrow streets of the Centro Storico.  It may not sound fun to you, but this is something I love to do. For example one comes upon side streets like this.  What would it be like to live in such a place? I think in winter it might be bleak.

                                                        

I walked down hill and around, and then up hill again getting a pretty good work out and noting some small shops I might have to visit.

All the products sampled today are DOP or Denominazione di Origine Protetta. Most European Countries have something similar.  It is an indication that the product has been created using specified and usually traditional methods and is a guarantee that the product will have regional characteristics. and will meet quality standards.  It does not necessarily mean expensive.

Let's start with the white wine from Orvieto. It calls itself "classico."  Orvieto is a notable wine producing region, and the city also has a famous cathedral among other attractions. It's quite a long way from Perugia, but maybe I can get there.  The wine is nice. I am not capable of discerning tropical fruit or grassiness. It's tasty and refreshing.

Now on to some DOP extra virgin olive oil from Noricia. It comes in a tin, so I might be able to bring some home with me. It smells of olives and tastes like slightly bitter vegetable, it did make me cough, so we know it's the good stuff.  The varietal used is Marfuga and the tin tells me it was harvested last year.

Noricia is more famous for its pork products and truffles than its olive oil. I bought a sausage that has truffle in it. I like truffles, but to be sure they are more of a scent than a taste. The sausage is on the hard side. I peeled off the rind. Now we are ready for a bite. Hmm. It's very chewy, and I think the truffle overwhelms the pork. It's also fatty, which European sausages tend to be. It's not bad. I would not go out of my way to buy it again, but I won't have a problem finishing it.

Ciao for now

Layers of History

                                          

Buon giorno,

Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying Perugia quite a bit. For one thing there is a refreshing absence of clogged streets due to tourist hordes. But now my apartment has no hot water, and none of the stove top burners work. I can't get the microwave to operate. I did before. I've notified by hosts but have not heard back. This has just been a wonky trip.

I went out to sight see. First I headed to Rocca Paolina, a Renaissance fortress that incorporated an Etruscan gate. The Etruscans surrounded their city of Perusia with walls pierced by many gates. Porta Marzia is the best preserved and most ornate.

The Renaissance city suffered from weak leadership just at the time they offended the Pope. The fortress was built at his behest so he could dominate the city and collect the taxes he desired.  The interior is labyrinthine and a lot of fun to explore. I have always been a sucker for a good castle.

One interesting feature was a series of escalators linking the lower city with the historic center. Someone we know had to try them out.

I went back to stroll down Perugia's main pedestrianized drag Corso Vannucci (the artist Perugino's surname) licking a window or two. I came upon the small Palazzo Sorbello and went in to visit.  It's possible that the family still lives here. Somebody lives there anyway.  The family collected books, and the library would keep the most avid reader busy for a life time. Readers of my blog know how much I enjoy period rooms, and I got a couple. The painted ceilings in the Renaissance style are lovely.

                                       

Downstairs is an exhibit of Eighteenth Century table ware. Nice! Also featured is a terrance with amazing views over the city and Umbrian countryside. See the pic at the top.

My ticket also included admission to the Etruscan Well. Now I realize this doesn't sound exciting and you can see the top of the thing in the parking lot in front of the Palazzo. But to have the real experience you have to go down down down and get dripped on. There's a very informative introductory video explaining the well's construction and how it was used. I was fascinated.  I also bought a souvenir,  a small reproduction of an Etruscan ewer. 

My hosts left me a voucher for a fancy pastry shop to reward me for my long stay. It's for thirty euros, which is generous. I used it today to get a little sandwich, but I may have to give in to a couple of fancy pastries.

But as a little old lady, I get tried after so many thousand steps, so I've come home for apero, and later I'll get a bike race.

The water problem appears to be solved, and my hostess taught me the trick to using the burners so I'm making some linguine.

Ciao for now.

Wandering Around the Historic Center

 Buon giorno,

Let me take a sip of my chilled Umbrian wine. Lovely. So refreshing as the afternoon has turned hot. Now let me take a bite of my porchetta sandwich.  Oh my.  Mmmm.  I seldom eat pork at home because the humanely raised stuff is hard to find, but Europe has different standards so I partake in Italy. Porchetta is slow roasted pig, which is then chopped up--be sure to include some cracklings. You can find it all over Italy, but this is the first time I've had it. And DANG is it good. The sandwich is on hard toasted Umbrian bread and there are caramelized onions, tomatoes, some green salad leaves--guacamole! The young woman at the counter had a chuckle at me for being pleased at the latter. Anyway this with the pork makes a sweet symphony of flavor.  I might have to become a regular at the stand. They have panini, too.

Because of my trip to the grocery store yesterday, I had a proper breakfast of hummus and flatbread instead of tuna on water cracker. So I was well fueled for tourist action. The historic center of Perugia is at some altitude so nights and mornings can be a bit chill, but I was comfortable with my cotton sweater. I was in search of the Tourist Office, but I made a detour to the Covered Market and the balcony with views over the countryside. I can go back sometime when the light is better to take a photo. But for now please note that Umbria is green and lush with vineyards and olive groves aplenty.

I don't care for going up and down the steep narrow stairs in my building, but the apartment is great, and I have a sound instinct for location. A lot of goodies are within easy walking distance.

I strolled around admiring the handsome, old buildings. I collected a map at the Tourist Office. Then I set off for my first target: La Galleria Nazionale dell' Umbria. It's a distinguished collection of Umbrian Art housed in the Medieval Palazzo dei Priori, which is worth a visit on its own. Now I happen to have a taste for Late Medieval and Early Renaissance Art. Because I am familiar with the iconography due to my years teaching AP Art History, I can read these paintings like a book.

Your milage may vary. The museum is worth a visit, but I can imagine people gettting tired of the endless Madonna Enthroneds, Annunciations, etc. And some of those angels look genuinely creepy! The exhibition stretches through the High Renaissance, Mannerism, and Baroque, but the emphasis is on the earlier periods and local artists, some of whom are very well known. Take that guy from Perugia--Perugino, who worked with Rafael.

After I finished there, I crossed the piazza and passed the Fontana Maggiore to get to the duomo of Perugia dedicated to San Lorenzo. You know, the guy the Romans barbequed. He said, "Turn me over, I'm done on this side." Thr church is a fine example of High Renaissance architecture.  

This is a living church, and there were people there to worship. Such churches have notices asking tourists not to visit during services. When I was there a service began, so I left or tried to. I was hindered by a long line of tourists wanting to sight see without bothering to respect the local culture. I don't think any of my friends would be those people.

After that I wandered around some more. Perugia is fascinating because around every corner is some remnant of the past--an arch, a fountain, an old wall. I made the right choice in coming here.

Ciao for now

Introduction to Perugia

 Buon Giorno,

After yesterday's trek, I decided to give myself an easy day. Ha ha ha ha ha.

Things began well with a trip to a nice grocery store a two minute walk uphill.  I'm having a proper apero with some olives to go with my almonds and Umbrian white. They are huge meaty olives, too. Yum.

But when I came home to put away my groceries, I put down the keys--and did not pick them up again. Who's the idiot? Pil for locking herself out. I went out intending to go for a stroll and look around because there are some nice sites nearby, but I realized as soon as I got out--that I could not get back in. And this is not a case of going down to the front desk. I'm pretty much on my own. Some fellow inhabitants were coming out and let me in.

I had my phone, but it's useless sending messages to the booking site although it works just fine on my computer. I had her email because I had to send her the uploaded image of my passport. This is required by law. I sent an email explaining my situation. Alas for me she did not check her email until this afternoon around 2:30.

My issue is that I needed a toilet. When some people moved in downstairs I asked if I could use their's. They said no. OK. They obviously weren't from Perugia, so that explains the lack of gracious kindness.

I endured until my hostess showed up. She is a charming woman who was very apologetic even though the fault was ALL MINE. 

Here are my digs.

That stone wall dates back to the Etruscans! It's thousands of years old and is the reason I booked this joint.

Here comes the inevitable history lecture. Perugia was founded by the Etruscans way back in the mists of time. Their language is one of history's enduring mysteries. It's not Indo-European, so . . .?  The original city (where I am) sits on a high hill and can easily be defended unless one is facing Roman Legions. Perugia is proud of its Etruscan heritage, but is also notable for Medieval and Renaissance Art and Architecture. Here's shot of my neighborhood.

I

f I can keep my wits about me, I'll have a grand old time here--not to mention some eating and drinking. I passed a porchetta stand on my stroll. I think I may have to attend same tomorrow after my visit to the museum.

Ciao for now!

Firenze a Perugia

 Buona Sera,

Well, I got here, and I'm semi settled in, but it was rather an ordeal, and I ended up feeling like a down market Blanche DuBois--utterly dependent (and very grateful for) the kindness of strangers. I need to have another sip of Umbrian wine and a few almonds to recruit myself.

But let's start with the pleasant part of the day in Florence. I got some decent sleep. Breakfast was very nice--abundant and varied selections more like a Northern European continental breakfast. I ate up, too, as I had a journey before me. I left my bags at the hotel and strolled around Florence. I fetched up at the Piazza San Giovanni where the duomo, Santa Maria dei Fiore is, and also the Baptistry. Here you go.

I would have liked to visit the Duomo, but the line to get in stretched to infinity, so I visited the Baptistry instead. It reminded me of Byzantine decorations.

I headed down to the river to the Ponte Vecchio. It's lined with jewelry stories, and I spent a large sum of moolah on some gold earrings. But I can have the VAT refunded so that helps.

Coming back I got lost, and google maps wanted to send me in some flooky direction. Fortunately I stumbled on my street and was able to return to the hotel and retrive my bags. Then I set out for the train station. I got my ticket from a machine, and to my annoyance saw that I had to change trains at Terantola, i.e. the middle of nowhere.

These trains have high narrow steps, and I am a little old lady with bags that I have a hard time managing. Kind people stepped in to help me get on, but I knew I'd need help getting off 

In the meantime we rolled through some lovely Tuscan countryside, alive with vineyards and olive groves.

Then we arrived in Terentola.  A kindly young man in my carriage was also going to Perugia, and he helped me out, but he was better informed than I and knew he had to catch the bus. I asked someone and realized I'd better catch the bus. A gentleman carried my bags down the stairs on one side for for me and up the other. But the young man and I had missed the bus to Perugia. He discovered a train that would leave in about 40 minutes.  We got on and rolled through Umbria--very lush in places and more vineyards and olive groves.

At length we arrived at Perugia. I built up some good karma by helping s couple of guys with the correct station to disembark. My young friend helped me with my bags. We bid farewell and good luck--and I encountered a lot more stairs. Fortunately the guys I'd helped stepped in to help me.

I got a taxi because after all that trying to navigate public transportation was too much. The problem was the taxi driver had never heard of my accommodation and let me out short of it and steered me in the wrong direction.  A young woman noticed my confusion and tried to help me. My phone would not show the address of the aparthotel. Her's did. I walked down the street. Nada.

I could not find it. I asked at a grocery store, and the proprietor tried to help me. I later bought some food from him, so there's that. I asked some guys on the street. They whipped out their phones and one actually found the place.

The next thing was to use the code to open the key lock. I needed their help to do this, too. Then. Two flights up--no lift. Me and my bags.

But if I'm bewildered by the city, I have a sterling view of its inhabitants. They really went out of their way for a clueless foreigner.

Ciao for now.

Champagne in the Air

 Buona Sera from Firenze,

That's Florence for you non-Italians. This has already been a complex journey, and it's not over yet. I'll reach my final destination Perugia tomorrow. Even though the trip went smoothly with no hitches, I'm still worn out and jet lagged.

I flew Air France business class from LAX to Paris Charles de Gaulle. It was one of their older planes, but the seat was fine, and the crew was lovely. The food. Gourmet and plenty of it. Let's start with amuse bouche, which as a pot of butternut squash puree with pine nuts. Washed down with Champagne. Now Air France firmly believes, "Everyone deserves Champagne," and a (lower end version) is even served as an aperitif in Coach. The version I got was divinr, so I asked for more with the starter.

I had smoked duck breast and beet salad. Phenomenal. You will also observe a roll and some AOP butter from Normandy, which was fabulous. The Champagne went with everything.

Dinner wasn't done. I had ordered the chicken with vegetables and rice--with more Champagne!

I accepted the cheese course, but didn't take a photo I refused desert and drank water instead.

That's a LOT of bubbly, Pil, weren't you tipsy?

Nope. Small glasses and sipped slowly. I really appreciated the stuff.  And I did get a few hours of sleep.

Now Charles de Gaulle is emphatically not my favorite airport in the world. I had a tight transfer schedule and knew I had to go through passport control and change terminals. I was anxious about making my flight. But our plane arrived a big forty minutes early. I did have a hike to Terminal F, but the line at passport control was pretty short. By that time I needed the toilet, so I nipped into the Air France lounge before going to the gate.

The flight here was short. We flew over the Alps on a perfectly clear day with the snow capped peaks sparkling in the sun. I was fascinated by the villages in the deep valleys and wondered how the people managed because they seemed really isolated.

We were fed. I was expecting a snack box, but no. Air France has gotten top chefs interested in making food taste great at altitude, so I had had some smoked trout with a delightful pasta salad. I was so sleepy, I dared not drink more wine.

I decided since I was bougie enough to fly business class I was bougie enough to take a taxi to my hotel. And here I am in a very nice room on a quiet side street. It's a four star place, and I got a Real Deal on the room, which I booked early. Breakfast is included, and it's a short walk to the train station, but I can spend a few hours in Florence tomorrow before leaving for Perugia.

Ciao for Now

The Journey Home and Some Reflections

 A Proper Good Afternoon to You

I had a smooth trip back. The walk from Holborn to Kings Cross was pretty easy although the sky began to spit, and I'd packed my umbrella. The adventure began once I got to Kings Cross and tried to figure out the elevators. I had to take three separate lifts to three different levels, and then I just missed the train I needed.

Not all trains go to Heathrow. If you need Terminals 2 and 3, you're in luck as all trains to Heathrow stop there, but I needed Terminal 5, so I had to wait twenty minutes for that particular train. It finally came, I got checked in, security made me take off my wrist brace (Grrrr), and I went and had a snack in the lounge because I'd breakfasted early and by noon I was hungry!

I often read or watch reviews of business class products, and sometimes I have to laugh as the reviewers appear fantastically picky. Dude, you're in business class, appreciate it!  Well, now it's my turn to gripe. I was looking forward to having my own little cubicle, and it was nothing of the sort. The seats were in a "herringbone" configuration, and my seat was totally exposed on the aisle--no privacy at all, and the window seat occupant would have to climb over me to use the toilet. No way I was going to get any sleep.

Then. A mother was seated separately from her son, who was very stressed, and she was distressed as a result. A flight attendant asked if I would be willing to move. Of course! I'd done it before to oblige people, and it's not a big deal--and I benefitted because I ended up in a better seat. The mother was absurdly grateful, but seriously, travelers help each other, and I was happy to help.

My new seat had more privacy. I did share it with another woman, but she was helpful and quiet and I did manage to get some sleep.

I enjoyed London and this trip and my trip to Porto restored some of my faith in humanity. When I see the news, I see a lot of gleeful cruelty to people who are different or disadvantaged. Well, I am neither, but I am a little old lady, and I received so much help and kindness on my trips.  I needed it, too, as my wrist is still a bit wonky.  People seemed to go out of their way to look after me. I deeply appreciated it.

So there's good out there and kindness without expecting return. It was a wonderful thing for me to experience.

Cheerio

A Great Day Out at Kensington Palace

 

A Proper Good Afternoon to You

The last time I was here was a crashing disappointment. Someone thought it would be fun to remove all the history and replace it with art installations with cryptic royal themes. I thought the results were a complete waste of time and money, and I was not alone in my opinion! The exhibit was roundly and universally condemned--even by the usually mild mannered Rick Steves.

Today's visit could not have been more different. I am feeling happy and satisfied on my last full day in London. A couple of days ago I booked a scheduled ticket on line, which is something I recommend. I had an easy trip on the Central Line from Holborn to Queensway and then a lovely stroll in Kensington Gardens to the Palace.

Nice leafy and green. Also I sneaked a peak into a private garden near the palace that featured a statue of the late Princess Diana of Wales and her sons. It's hard to see, but it's there.

I got there early, but there was already a queue for us 10:00 entrants. We showed our tickets and went through security, and then it was time for some fun history.  Kensington was chosen and developed as a royal residence by William III and Mary II with the help of Sir Christopher Wren. The palace was also where young Princess Victoria grew up under the heavy hand of her mother, the Duchess of Kent.  Most recently Diana, Princess of Wales and her sons had apartments in the palace.

I began with the Queen's State Apartments. The Queens in question are Mary II and Caroline, the Consort of George II.  Here is their audience chamber.

My favorite thing to visit is period rooms, and I had them in abundance and in various styles. YUM!

I also enjoyed the King's State Apartments. Then I went to look at the display of historic costume where I was exceedingly impressed. Here are some garments belonging to Queen Alexandra, (Long suffering) Consort of Edward VII.

After that I attended an excellent exhibition on Victoria's childhood with some of her clothes and toys and information on how she was groomed as heir to the throne. Charlotte, Princess of Wales, daughter of George IV died in childbirth prompting the King's many brothers to try to sire an heir. Edward, Duke of Kent, had the brains to marry a German Princess of proven fertility. Edward was her second husband and Victoria had an older half brother and sister.  William IV's Queen Adelaide could not carry a child to term, so Victoria was it. She became Queen at age eighteen, dumped her controlling mother, and married her "beautiful" cousin Albert as soon as she could manage. She enjoyed a long, successful reign but left Kensington for Windsor and other residences in Scotland and the Isle of Wight.

I made my way home feeling very fulfilled. For dinner I am having the left over cheese I got from Neal's Yard Dairy. Very tasty indeed.  I will detail my reflections on London and my trip home tomorrow.

Cheerio