Buon giorno
I got a late start because I needed to wash my hair, and I came back earlyish because the weather has turned a bit, and it was chilly, but I got my legs stretched.
I strolled down Via Alessandro Manzoni. Before we reach our destination let us speak of Manzoni because I downloaded his classic novel Il Promessi Sposi or The Betrothed for us English speakers onto my kindle because I wanted to gain some insight into the Lombard character. There's a reason you have never heard of it. It's not that it's a bad book, but it is a very old fashioned one, full of author's asides, digressions into history, pages of elaborate description and much tell without showing. Think of an Italian Sir Walter Scott. But the book has had a profound effect on Italian culture. For one thing eating polenta became not just the respectable but the patriotic thing to do.
Ah here we are the Villa Poldi Pezzoli one of those grand urban palaces belonging to another of Milan's avid collectors. Unfortunately this one was bombed in 1943--uh--probably by us. After all we also took out Monte Cassino. Anyway much of the original furnishings were destroyed, but donations of art and objects have turned the museum into a worthwhile destination. The building is just beautiful and the exhibits well done. As I enjoy seeing how the other less than one percent live, this was one of my favorite places to visit.
And I just happened to be back in the neighborhood of Amorino. The street is narrow and lined with shops and eating places on the ground floor but the buildings are very pretty in different earthy and pastel colors with wrought iron balconies, painted shutters, and roof top gardens. Today's flavors were Amarena (yes, I know but I get extra cherries) Marron Glace or candied chestnuts--nutty wonderfulness, and last but not least my favorite Nocciola or hazelnut served with actual hazelnuts.
I also paid off my cosmic travelers karma to folks who helped me because a couple came in and sat at the tables not knowing they had to place an order at the counter.
On my way to the next stop I took the opportunity to stroll through the Castello Sforzesco again. I visited the Palazzo d' Arte. Aren't you tired of art, Pil? This museum holds Modern Art, so it was something different. The most interesting thing was a Very Contemporary--think references to Wikileaks--exhibit of graphic art.
Then home via Billa, the supermarket fortunately open Sunday afternoons. I'm getting bold. I got some salad fixings and some vinegar and a small bot of olive oil. I may try actual cooking in a day or so rather than boiling fresh pasta or microwaving something.
Today's excursion into into Milanese Culture: Il aperitivo. This is both a drink and a social event, and if you visit Milan you can buy a few drinks and take advantage of the free happy hour buffet.
What should I order, Pil?
Whatever you like, I suppose. To be Italian you could try a sparkling wine. Make it Prosecco.
Or to be classically Milanese try a Campari and something. Now I happen to like it with soda, and I have no idea if one fourth Campari and three fourths soda is correct, but that's what I do. Campari is also an ingredient in a Negroni along with gin and some other stuff. You can look it up on the internet. You may also have your Negroni Sbagliato or incorrect if you mix it with a sparking wine (use Prosecco!)
Doesn't Campari taste like cough syrup?
No. Some people don't like it. It tastes of bitter herbs, but I happen to enjoy it.
Doesn't it get its color from bugs?
Er. Cochineal is widely used as a colorant. Don't let it bug (heh heh) you.
Yeah. Any alternatives? You could try Zucca, which is a rhubarb liquor. If you go to Galleria Vittorio Emmanuale II you can go to Zucca Bar and try it, but stand at the counter. I got mine at Billa. My bottle says you can have with with soda or some orange juice as far as I can tell as the label is in Italian. The latter sounds kinda icky to me. The stuff looks like Dr. Pepper but smells like vegetables. It has is a definite smoky taste and is a little sweet. It's not bad, but I am actually relieved that I don't like it a lot because I don't think it's found outside Milan.
Ciao!
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