The British Library: Sigh. Another Disappointment

 

A Proper Good Morning to You

I came back pretty early because today is the hottest day of my trip. I promised myself an easy day, which I did have although I did experience some disappointment.

I set off via tube to Kings Cross-St. Pancras. One of my missions was to check out the lift situation.  When I leave for Heathrow I cannot count on kindly Londoners to help with my bags, so my plan is to walk to Kings Cross-St. Pancras, which will take me half an hour and it's flat, where I will take the lifts to the Piccadilly Line and hope to get a train to Terminal 5.

Here's a shot of the St. Pancras Hotel formerly the Midland Hotel, a late Victorian pile that stood empty for decades. What a waste. But then someone bought and restored it, and a friend of mine stayed there, and said it was very nice indeed.

I had a short walk in the heat and traffic to the British Library. It's free and a very nice facility, and thankfully cool and dark inside. I'd been before and really appreciated the extensive exhibit of old manuscripts, printed books, and historical and literary documents.

What happened? The history was very thin in the display cases. For one thing I expected to see the notebooks of Miss Jane Austen's juvenalia entitled volume the first and volume the second as well as some letters and manuscripts from the Inklings. I also missed the various laws and proclamations that punctuated British History. There were a few early Bibles and other illuminated manuscripts. I was not interested in the Beatles.

I did come across this letter to Cassandra from Jane, but that was the only reference to her.

I strolled around the rest of the Library and observed a lot of folks meeting for coffee or working on their laptops, and it is a very nice place for both activities. I had something else in mind.

I have left and arrived from St. Pancras International--home of the Eurostar. It would be a bit more complicated since Brexit, but the traveller can quickly get to Paris, Brussels, or even Amsterdam. More rarely, there is a direct train to the South of France, and I went to Lyon that way. But I wasn't there for the trains, of course, but for the rather posh shopping center catering to the travelers.

There's a very nice branch of Fortnum and Mason, less crowded but no less expensive. But they have a kind of black tea that I really like and that I have run out of, so I exercised my credit card.

Then, I felt I had accomplished my tourist dharma and could go home. I stopped at Pret a Manger for a wrap for lunch and dinner. Before I left I took my olives out of the fridge, so I could have a small apero after I drank my water.

 I watch the Tour de France when I come home and it's full of drama--not all of it good, but you need not worry. I have friends as obsessed with cycling as I am, so I won't bother you.

Cheerio

The British Museum: And Why I Did Not Enjoy My Visit

 

A Proper Good Afternoon to You

Don't get me wrong. I love the British Museum--although (ahem) some methods of acquiring a lot of its contents were dubious. On my many trips to London, it was always a must visit, and I thoroughly enjoyed every one.

But since the Pandemic ended, Britain and Europe have been flooded with tourists from all over the world. Museums in all major cities have instituted a reservation system--no more just showing up unless you want to risk being turned away,  And the British Museum is renowned and its exhibits attract millions of visitors each year--the Egyptian Hall is almost as good as a trip to Cairo. It felt like they were all there at once today!

As my timed ticket was for later in the morning I did a few errands before setting out. I got some skin cream for my aging epidermis, took out some recycling and went grocery shopping. I set out early so I could stroll around and get my steps in.

The British Museum is not far from my home, so I was there very early. I strolled up to Russell Square and moseyed around the park and appreciated the dogs. A small dog appeared to be defending it's family's blanket from some non-existent threats.

I went back to the Museum and found the entrance, showed my ticket and was admitted. No one asked about the time, and I was twenty minutes early. I went through security, which you will find at most museums, and entered. In the photo note the nearly invisible Pride Flag flying over this World Heritage Site.

The place was packed! Clearly no one was paying attention to timed entry. If you had a ticket you were let in as I was.  But whoa--floor to ceiling tourists. I had a hard time getting around. There were some things I wanted to see. I got to see some of them but not very well. Numerous tour and school groups parked themselves in front of the most important objects. People took selfies. They messed with their phones.  They chatted and hung out. I was there for the history, but I did not have much of a chance to enjoy it. Here are some shots I got of the Elgin Marbles. Here are some bas reliefs from the frieze inside the temple.

The "Three Goddesses" (We aren't sure which ones) from one of the Parthenon's pediments.

I'll tell you what. I am unlikely to get to Greece myself, but I wish that the UK would return these to Greece. Whatever excuses the UK makes about keeping the sculptures safe have long since evaporated.

So many people were there, it was hard to move around, and impossible to see a lot of things. Moreover, it was stuffy and hot. I needed to get out.  And to be honest, it was a genuine relief to emerge.

The day was warm, but the forecast is for more heat, so I decided to get more fish and chips. (Hey cod has Omega 3, and chipped potatoes have . . . some nutrition.) It was a short detour on my way home, but I was glad to get back to my air conditioned room to eat and rest.

Cheerio

Kew Gardens

 

A Proper Good Morning to You

To say that Central London is bustling is to make a laughable understatement. Closely packed buildings, crowded sidewalks, traffic punctuated by honking. It's worth it to come, but it's also worth it to go a bit out of town for some quiet and open space filled with beautiful plant life.

Kew used to be a royal estate beloved of George III and his wife Queen Charlotte, who built a cottage "palace" there among other things. Now it is a world renowned botanical garden and research center and a justly popular tourist destination. Getting there is kind of a pain but worth it. I had to top off my Oyster Card and then set out on a long tube ride.

I took the Piccadilly Line to South Kensington where I transferred to the District Line. Fortunately I found seats on both--and on the return, too, which was great because I had a lot of walking in store.

I alighted at Kew Station and walked down to the Victoria Gate. To my surprise I arrived a few minutes before the Gardens opened and the line to get in was short. I got a discount for being old and set out deliberately walking away from the popular attractions like the Palm House.

One can easily spend the whole day here. There is plenty to see and many places to stop for a meal, snack or drink. I was there midweek, but when I left in the afternoon the park was filling up and there was a significant line to get in. Also when I passed the Treetop Walk on my way back, I heard a lot of shrieking. I would not have gone had that noise been going on when I arrived.

All I wanted was to soak my soul in green and walk under the trees. It was quiet except that Kew and Richmond are under the Heathrow approach for landing planes. I inhaled the sweet, cool, plant scented air. Ahhh.

So I don't have a lot to say. I just walked mostly randomly following paths and enjoying some peace and nature. I did go to the treetop walk, and I'm glad I went early. I pretty much had it to myself. So I walked and walked, and walked some more until my elderly feet began to protest.

Before I left I investigated the shop, which is very classy and Very Expensive. I was curious about the Honey Vodka, but I walked out without buying anything.

By that time it had turned very warm, and I had that long tube ride home. But here I am eating a chicken and avocado sandwich after a proper apero of some Greek olives. I should have butter for desert as I watch the Tour de France Individual Time Trial.

Cheerio

Something for Everyone: The Victoria and Albert

 

A Proper Good Afternoon to You

So I got some microwave meals at the grocery stores, and meh. They were not good--not nearly as good as the ones I had in Portugal besides being much more expensive. I'm not going to bother any more. There's a Pret a Manger just across the street with healthful and tasty food for less money and fuss. I got a Mediterranean Tuna Wrap and some sparkling water on the way home.

I exercised my Oyster Card today, taking the Piccadilly Line to South Kensington where one can find the Victoria and Albert, a museum of applied arts from pretty much all over the world. It's a multi day project for someone my age, but my time is short, and I had targets in mind.

After alighting from the train one is directed down a long tunnel with exits signposted. This is also the way to the Natural History Museum, and since I was early, I had a stroll in their garden. I had discovered a direct entrance to the V and A from the tunnel, but I had to wait until the museum opened.

I wanted to see the British Art first. What are you in the mood for? Costume? Musical Instruments? Weapons? Tableware, Furniture, Jewelry? Decorative items? Religious Works? All of the Above? Then this is the place for you. I wandered around randomly stopping to admire pieces that caught my eye. There are no period rooms, but there are plenty of period ensembles like this one.

I also visited with my old pal Henry VII, founder of the Tudor Dynasty and an underrated ruler in my opinion, who's been overshadowed by his --uh--colorful successor.

I took a detour to the Asian Wing to look at some exhibits from China as I am interested in the Tang Dynasty. Most of the exhibits are from the Qing Period, which interests me less, but I did find things from the Song and Tang Dynasties. Here are some Tang figurines.

I finished up with a visit to the Raphael Cartoons, originally meant at studies for frescos in the Papal Apartments. The cartoons are as fine as finished paintings in my opinion.

Having seen my fill I went back to the tube, and realized that I had left the museum just in time, since I ran into not less than five school groups. Instead of coming straight home, I got off at Green Park. That's your stop if you are visiting Buckingham Palace, but my destination was Fortnum and Mason. To get there I had to pass a couple of "palace hotels," whose posh clientele would never do anything as declasse as arrive by tube or any other form of public transportation.

I was on a scouting mission, so I didn't buy anything. The food hall was crowded, and a lot of what they offer caters to tourists with deep pockets, but they also have some very fine tea.

Back to the tube and home for the bike race and some food and drink.

Cherrio!

The Wallace Collection Plus Side Trips

 

A Proper Good Afternoon to You

Look at that deep golden color on the English Butter. And it tastes as good as it looks.  Next to it sits some young, gooey goat cheese. I'd better have a bite right now.  Ahhhh. That's sublime. After my day of touristing I attended Neal Yard's Dairy--and not for the last time this trip. Truth to tell, I love dairy saturated fat in all its forms.  I tell my arteries that I walk it all off before it can get cloggy.

It rained over night, and I saw the rain during breakfast. I don't hear it because of the double glazed windows that shut out the city noise. It had cleared up by the time I set out, but the streets were still wet. I needed to replenish my groceries, and I thought it would be a good idea to go to Sainsbury Local early. Everyone else had the same idea, but I got in and out pretty well.

When I set out again I took the Tube and more specifically the Central Line to Bond Street. Although the stop is called Bond Street the passenger is decanted on Oxford Street. I had directions to Manchester Square and the Wallace Collection. This is an art trip, but the house in which the collection is housed merits a visit on its own. Below is the area, which, were I the owner, I would be serving you all Afternoon Tea.

Fortunately the place was uncrowded, and I had the sumptuous period rooms to myself. The place is a treasure house of fine furniture as well as painting and sculpture. I also appreciate the extensive and beautiful exhibition of porcelain, and some exquisite snuff boxes.

Every room is jam packed with paintings. The collection is very heavy on Rococo and The Dutch Golden Age, both of which I enjoy, but you can also find, Rubens, Van Dyke, Rembrandt, and Titian. Another painter I especially like is Canaletto, whose vedute of Venice are here in abundance. My taste for him has been roundly condemned because his work is both highly naturalistic and beautiful. These people are best ignored in my opinion.  Here's another period room for you.

My route home took me past the gigantic department store Selfridges, so I popped in. Most of the place is high end luxury brands, something I am just not interested in so I just cruised around. I did help myself to some fancy perfume from Jo Malone, and I took a look around the Food Hall. Some of my friends appreciate things to eat.

I tubed back to Holborn, but instead of going home, I walked down to Covent Garden for my cheese and butter, and then back home for the Tour de France.

Cheerio

The National Portrait Gallery

 A Proper Good Afternoon to You

The sky looks like it wants to rain. I would enjoy this. We had another pleasantly cool day. I looked at the weather for the week and made some plans. Tomorrow is likely to be rainy, so I have a couple of museums in mind depending on my mood. I also booked my visit to The British Museum and Kew Gardens. Booking ahead even when admission is free (The British Museum) or a stiff admission (Kew Gardens) where one pays by credit card. This has become very common in Continental Europe as well. Also I looked up some sites, I might want to visit. Whoa ho! I mean I knew London was expensive, but I'm reluctant to shell out thirty pounds, which is a cool forty U.S. Dollars.

The National Portrait Gallery is not as popular as her sister around the corner, but for me it's a definite must see. Portraits of various periods and media are what is on offer. I recognize nearly all of the ones from the Fifteenth, Sixteenth, Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries, and most of the Nineteenth. History is my business, and come on, you'd recognize George Washington's portrait. The British historical figures are as familiar to me. Oh and speaking of George, he's featured, too along with Benjamin Franklin--very magnanimous, I find it.

Here' Queen Elizabeth I's Coronation portrait.

And here is the scientist Michael Faraday--a handsome chap I included as a treat for my female readers.

On my way home I took a detour through Covent Garden. I'll do it properly later on, but it's a great place for refreshment and retail therapy although specifically directed toward tourists. But there are many pedestrianized streets and the scene is lively and pleasant.

Less pleasant is the presence of homeless men and the occasional panhandler. The UK, despite Brexit, has solid social supports, but the men need to dry out first.

I'm having more of that lovely Cheddar I got a few days ago, but I'm going to devour it all, so I'll need to go back.  For dinner I'm going to have a microwave meal, so not that exciting.

Cheerio

The Strand: Somerset House and Twinings

 A Proper Good Afternoon to You

The weather has turned, and it's cooler and windy. Moreover, the Tour de France has started. This means it's time for Fish and Chips! They wrap it up well, so it's still nice and hot. I go to an old fashioned, no frills, cash only chippie on Theobalds Road. I can't claim it's healthful, but boy is it good. There's a tourist fish and chips joint in Covent Garden that costs twice as much.

I strolled down to the Strand. My target was Somerset House, and more specifically The Courtald Gallery. I was early, but Somerset House is nice to stroll around in as is the Strand. I passed some Very Fancy hotels, including The Savoy. Note the Pride Flag flying over Somerset House, and that is not the only indication of Pride Support I've seen in London.

The Courtald charges admission, but the collection is distinguished and well displayed, even better the place is much less crowded. I used the facilities in the basement, and then climbed to the top of the museum because I like working my way down. I got treated to some Late Medieval and Early Renaissance Art. There's also a good assortment of Rubens. I found his sketches planning out some major works especially interesting.

Most people come for the Impressionists and Post Impressionists, and I can't blame them. In my opinion the gem is Manet's Bar at the Folies Bergere, but a lot of interesting works are on offer.  The only problem I had was when one idiot girl decided she needed to stand in front of me while I was looking at a painting, and what made it worse was that she was more interested in her phone than the art.

When I was done, I paid my respects at the Temple of Tea--the original Twining's shop. It's narrow, but it goes back pretty far, and the selection can be overwhelming. I came away with some English Breakfast, but I may need to go back. A lot of sights decorate the Strand. On my way back, for instance, I passed the Old Bailey, and one of the Inns of Court, where attorney's are trained.

By this time I was really craving some fish and chips, and I knew the place was open for business, so I attended. The cod is well battered. I needed to sprinkle some more salt on it, but it was good. Chips are not fries. The are not thin, uniform, and very crisp. The size and shape of the potato bits is somewhat random, and they are much thicker and  more potatoey than fries. I really like them, especially with malt vinegar and salt.

Cherrio