Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying Perugia quite a bit. For one thing there is a refreshing absence of clogged streets due to tourist hordes. But now my apartment has no hot water, and none of the stove top burners work. I can't get the microwave to operate. I did before. I've notified by hosts but have not heard back. This has just been a wonky trip.
I went out to sight see. First I headed to Rocca Paolina, a Renaissance fortress that incorporated an Etruscan gate. The Etruscans surrounded their city of Perusia with walls pierced by many gates. Porta Marzia is the best preserved and most ornate.
The Renaissance city suffered from weak leadership just at the time they offended the Pope. The fortess was built at his behest so he could dominate the city and collect the taxes he desired. The interior is labyrinthine and a lot of fun to explore. I have always been a sucker for a good castle.
One interesting feature was a series of escalators linking the lower city with the historic center. Someone we know had to try them out.
I went back to stroll down Perugia's main pedestrianized drag Corso Vannucci (the artist Perugino's surname) licking a window or two. I came upon the small Palazzo Sorbello and went in to visit. It's possible that the family still lives here. Somebody lives there anyway. The family collected books, and the library would keep the most avid reader busy for a life time. Readers of my blog know how much I enjoy period rooms, and I got a couple. The painted ceilings in the Renaissance style are lovely.
Downstairs is an exhibit of Eighteenth Century table ware. Nice! Also featured is a terrance with amazing views over the city and Umbrian countryside. See the pic at the top.
My ticket also included admission to the Etruscan Well. Now I realize this doesn't sound exciting and you can see the top of the thing in the parking lot in front of the Palazzo. But to have the real experience you have to go down down down and get dripped on. There's a very informative introductory video explaining the well's construction and how it was used. I was fascinated. I also bought a souvenir, a small reproduction of an Etruscan ewer.
My hosts left me a voucher for a fancy pastry shop to reward me for my long stay. It's for thirty euros, which is generous. I used it today to get a little sandwich, but I may have to give in to a couple of fancy pastries.
But as a little old lady, I get tried after so many thousand steps, so I've come home for apero, and later I'll get a bike race.
The water problem appears to be solved, and my hostess taught me the trick to using the burners so I'm making some linguine.
Ciao for now.
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