Wandering Around the Historic Center

 Buon giorno,

Let me take a sip of my chilled Umbrian wine. Lovely. So refreshing as the afternoon has turned hot. Now let me take a bite of my porchetta sandwich.  Oh my.  Mmmm.  I seldom eat pork at home because the humanely raised stuff is hard to find, but Europe has different standards so I partake in Italy. Porchetta is slow roasted pig, which is then chopped up--be sure to include some cracklings. You can find it all over Italy, but this is the first time I've had it. And DANG is it good. The sandwich is on hard toasted Umbrian bread and there are caramelized onions, tomatoes, some green salad leaves--guacamole! The young woman at the counter had a chuckle at me for being pleased at the latter. Anyway this with the pork makes a sweet symphony of flavor.  I might have to become a regular at the stand. They have panini, too.

Because of my trip to the grocery story yesterday, I had a proper breakfast of hummus and flatbread instead of tuna on water cracker. So I was well fueled for tourist action. The historic center of Perugia is at some altitude so nights and mornings can be a bit chill, but I was comfortable with my cotton sweater. I was in search of the Tourist Office, but I made a detour to the Covered Market and the balcony with views over the countryside. I can go back sometime when the light is better to take a photo. But for now please not that Umbria is green and lush with vineyards and olive groves aplenty.

I don't care for going up and down the steep narrow stairs in my building, but the apartment is great, and I have a sound instinct for location. A lot of goodies are within easy walking distance.

I strolled around admiring the handsome, old buildings. I collected a map at the Tourist Office. Then I set off for my first target: La Galleria Nazionale dell' Umbria. It's a distinguished collection of Umbrian Art housed in the Medieval Palazzo dei Priori, which is worth a visit on its own. Now I happen to have a taste for Late Medieval and Early Renaissance Art. Because I am familar with the iconography due to my years teaching AP Art History, I can read these paintings like a book.

Your milage may vary. The museum is worth a visit, but I can imagine people gettting tired of the endless Madonna Enthroneds, Annunciations, etc. And some of those angels look genuinely creepy! The exhibition stretches through the High Renaissance, Mannerism, and Baroque, but the emphasis is on the earlier periods and local artists, some of whom are very well known. Take that guy from Perugia--Perugino, who worked with Rafael.

After I finished there, I crossed the piazza and passed the Fontana Maggior to get to the duomo of Perugia dedicated to San Lorenzo. You know, the guy the Romans barbequed. He said, "Turn me over, I'm done on this side." Thr church is a fine example of High Renaissance architecture.  

This is a living church, and there were people there to worship. Such churches have notices asking tourists not to visit during services. When I was there a service began, so I left or tried to. I was hindered by a long line of tourists wanting to sight see without bothering to respect the local culture. I don't think any of my friends would be those people.

After that I wandered around some more. Perugia is fascinating because around every corner is some remant of the past--an arch, a fountain, an old wall. I made the right choice in coming here.

Ciao for now