A Pleasant Last Day in Porto

 

Bom Dia,

Behold the Cathedral of Porto in all its Romanesque Glory!

The day dawned sunny but pleasantly cool. I have a very early departure tomorrow and my on-line check in for my flights completed, and my taxi pick up is confirmed. Now I need to pack and make sure I'm clean and neat for my flights.

I started the day with a trip to the ATM. I didn't intend to spend lots, but I like to have a supply of Euros for when I return to Continental Europe. My next trip is London, so I'll have to dig around and see if I have any pounds left.

There was a museum I particularly wanted to see and I found it easily. I also found the notice that it was closed during renovation. Uh huh. The joint has a very nice website that gives all sorts of info, but fails to mention the closure.

Never mind. I was pretty close to the famous Ponte de Luiz I, so I decided to take another walk across. It was pretty much the perfect day for it with a fresh breeze and clear skies. The views are spectacular--including large signs indicating the location of the cellars of famous Port brands. They offer tours and tastings, and there are also frequent river tours of various kinds, so there's a lot more to do in Porto than I accomplished.

But I wasn't done. Another museum beckoned me that I had planned to visit after the first one because it was downhill.  A charitable foundation was founded back in the Sixteenth Century called the Misericoridia under the protection of the Virgin Mary, Mother of Mercy.  I was surprised to learn it was still going strong providing medical care and support for hospitals as well as medical care for prisoners all over Northern Portugal.

It's not a project museum, but I found the exhibits interesting and appreciated some Late Medieval and Early Modern European Art. The paintings were kinda meh, but there were some excellent polychrome wood carvings as well as medical artifacts and some precious treasures from the church.

There were stairs. I am now afraid of stairs, especially slippery marble ones.  I managed. I also took the elevator whenever I could.

The visit ends with an entrance to the Chapel of the Misericordia, a lavish and beautiful Baroque style church. I had it to myself, which was nice--peaceful and quiet--unlike the frantic tourist milieu into which I was decanted.

I enjoyed my trip despite my injury and some bad weather, and I saw nearly everything I really wanted to see. I hoped to take a day trip, but that did not work out. Porto is a worthy destination and a popular one, so be prepared for hoards of tourists. The historic center is beautiful and very walkable, although there's a lot of up and down.

I reserve my greatest appreciation for the kindness of my hosts at Porto Old Town for help with my injury as well as the lovely pharmacist who gave me timely first aid without my having to ask.

Adeus

X

Porto Makes it Easy to Spend Money

 Bom Dia,

First,  the progress report. I am typing this two handed, and I was able to put my contact lenses in and--more importantly--take them out. The swelling is down somewhat, and I have a bit more strength and mobility in my fingers. My hand and arm look ghastly because of the bruising, but I'm not in pain unless I make a bad move.

The photo is of Porto Historic Center Touristville wiith the magnificent San Bento Station in the background.

The museums are closed today, since it's Monday, so I figured I'd do some shopping. For one thing I needed some Food and Drink. I bought a bag of almonds, too, because they make good apero with Tawny Port and also because I have a Very Early Flight on Wednesday. They will feed me on the plane, but I may need a snack before that.

When I brought my groceries home, the gracious and compassionate Head Housekeeper came to check on me, and I was able to give a good report. I waggled my fingers for her.

After putting my groceries away, I set out again for a major pedestrianized tourist shopping street called Flores. Portugal is famous for its cork products. I got myself a hat made of cork, which is too big and looks kinda dorky, but--hey! How many people can boast of a hat made out of cork? I made various other purchases because I like bringing back things for my friends. Not souvenirs. Things people can actually use or wear that have a cute origin story.

I saw a likely looking shop and stepped in. I was looking for chocolate because most of my friends have expressed a craving for the European stuff.  The handsome young man in charge knows how to sell his product. He offers tastes. Chocolate is just one part of the shop's offerings. We are also confronted with fruit pastes and honey. He offered me some fig fruit paste that he claimed was his favorite. Oh my! It instantly became my favorite, too. So I wandered around and loaded up and unleashed my credit card. Some of my pals are going to get a different taste of Portugal. The chocolate comes in cubes, so I can mix and match flavors.

Some chocolate shops offer port infused chocs or serve chocs with port. I'm a firm no on this, but your milage may vary.

On impulse I stopped at a bakery on my street and bought a Pastel de Nata. These are sweet custard tarts that are essentially the Portuguese National Desserts, and it is extremely rude to come to Portugal without eating one. And if the visitor fails to consume, it is their loss because these items are Very Tasty! The tart shell is flakey pastry. The filling is rich with egg and butter--not too sugary.  I'm glad I got it in my neighborhood because in the tourist zone, they cost some fifty europence more.

Adeus

Stormy Day Porto

 Bom Dia,

Heavy rain, thunderstorms, chance of hail? Uh no. I'm going to opt out and stay in while enjoying listening to the rain.  And look! I'm typing two handed again--so much easier.

The photo is one I took a day or so earlier. If you look closely you can see white things hanging. This is dried, salted cod--the bacalhau that is the foundation of Portuguese cuisine, while being something I dislike. If you were to cross the street, you'd see fruit preserves, nuts, and many very expensive bottles of port. If you entered the store you'd find even more goodies.

But since we're not going out, let's have some history!

You can't spare us, Pil?

Nope. Here goes. It's one of those cities whose name designates its function. Porto sits at the mouth of the Douro River. Originally settled by Celts, whom you can also find in Northwestern Spain, but these Celts may have been contaminated by Phoencians, who were always on the lookout for good trading opporunities.

But, of course the Romans showed up, but when the Empire fell the Visigoths and then the Muslims moved in. La Reconquista was mounted from the Principality of Asturias in Spain. What became Northern Portugal became county under the Princes of Asturias. Later the whole of the Western Iberian Peninsula was regained from the Muslims starting in the 1300s.

Close ties with England appeared when John of Gaunt's daughter, Philippa of Lancaster married King Joao I. I referred to the royal couple earlier as the parents of Dom Henrique--the Navigator.

Portugal has often been overshadowed by Spain. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries because of dynastic marriages Spain ruled Portugal, but my host country has always and successfully asserted its independence. Now Portugal is a firm and democratic member of the European Union--a very good thing in my opinion.

Adeus

Casa do Principe

 

Bom dia,

Dear Friends, I have no idea why my previous post was tagged as sensitive. Apart from discussing my wanderings, I mentioned the May Day activities and complained about the exchange rate. It's safe to read, honest!

I am making progress! I can use my left hand a bit.  I managed to wash my hair, but the real triumph was putting in my earrings. I may try contact lenses tomorrow. Swollen fingers crossed.

I set out early as rain is expected, and I don't fancy fighting my way through the crowd with an umbrella and slippery sidewalks.

But I very much wanted to see the Casa do Principe. The building was the Royal Mint, which also apparently also collected and administered port fees and taxes.  I don't know what the Queen--the English Princess Philippa of Lancaster (daughter of John of Gaunt) [No one but you cares about who her father was, nor do they care about Lancaster].

But people should care about the Prince--the Portuguese term is Infante--she gave birth to. He was Dom Henrique, known to history as Prince Henry the Navigator. Apparently devoid of personal ambition, Henrique dedicated himself to the spread of Christianity and the defeat of Islam. You may not approve, but the Infante's methods proved effective.  He established a navigation center at Sagres on the Southern tip of Portugal.  After his death his efforts bore fruit in the voyage of Vasco da Gama around Africa to India--where he was not welcomed.

The Casa is a small museum, so perfect for me today. The irritating thing was that although I got a discount for being old, the ticket taker did not require proof. 

The first thing I noticed was the smell of old stone. as befits an old mint, some coins are on display along with ceramics and other sparse artifacts from the site.  I enjoyed my day out except for the long, slow climb home.

Adeus

Easing Back into the Game

 

Bom Dia, 

Yesterday was May First--not a big deal in North America, but definitely a Very Big Deal in Southern Europe. The parade and demonstration reached my neighborhood in the late afternoon and featured bullhorns and chanting by various groups.  I could not understand a word, May 1st is International Workers Day, so it's a sound guess some of the chants were political.

Their timing was good. After dark it began to rain, and around midnight I was awakened by a loud thunderstorm accompanied by heavy rain. It rained off and on--I breakfasted to the sound of falling drops, but later it cleared up enough for me to go out.

It was good to get out of the room and walk outside, but I had a false start. I went downstairs only to realize I'd forgotten my glasses. I'm not used to wearing them, but inserting contact lenses is two hand job.  I began with the ATM, shaking my head at the awful exchange rate. I expected a weaker dollar, but I didn't expect the buck to be this feeble. Fortunately Porto is not expensive.

I had a pleasant stroll, making a big loop around my neighborhood where I found a lot of fun new windows to lick.

Then the sky began to spit. Although I always carry an umbrella in Europe, I did not trust myself with it one handed.

I expect to go out tomorrow. There's something touristy I'd like to see.

Yesterday I dined on tuna pate--gotta get those Omega3s. Today I'm having a pastry stuffed with chicken. The Portuguese call these empanadas, but the aren't like the South American ones.

Adeus

Porto-- One- Handed

 Bom dia,

The Real Nightmare is hooking and unhooking bras. I can't avoid this, and it really takes two hands, which I have not got at the moment, so I have to accept some pain.

Otherwise I am pain free unless I must do a task that requires two hands. I can't wear my contact lenses or my earrings. I do not remember how I got the former out, but I did. And I'm grateful that I can sleep.

Look. The sprain is bad, but the treatment does work. I have pain cream, which I massage on to my afflicted wrist and hand. I take my ibuprofen as directed. I can shower and undress and dress myself although it takes four times as long as usual. I have developed techniques for T shirts, socks. sweaters. I can pull socks on one handed and slacks, too, but the buttons are an issue. If I hold tubes between my knees, I can get enough traction to open them.

I needed food and drink. I emerged from my room and asked one of the cleaning staff to help me. I have to use the pain cream, but then I can't reapply my bandage. I don't speak Portuguese. She doesn't speak English, but she understood what I needed once I showed her my loose bandage, and she fixed me right up. I have learned to say "obrigado." I have the feeling I'll need this word a lot. 

With the bandage secured, I felt confident about going shopping for food. My refrigerator is micro, so I must shop frequently. There is nothing wrong with my legs, and even my feet seem to have improved, so I set off. I recycled some cardboard and then walked to my preferred supermarket.

Although the exchange rate is truly awful, the cost of living in Portugal is not bad. For example I spent sixteen euro for my medical treatment at the pharmacy, and my groceries--admittedly a big trip, cost about twenty-two euro. I was ecstatic because I found hummus--my preferred European breakfast, and I also bought wine and port, plus microwave meals.

I think I'll be able to take a walk around tomorrow. Just don't expect tourist action.

Adeus